E3: Bytča rest day: Day 135

A day visiting tourist sites, drinking coffee and resting, which unfortunately does not appear to be improving my knee.

Bytča has three main tourist sites. The first was the Church of All Saints. Although 700 years old it has been subject to many changes, the interior looks Baroque. I sat for a while praying for my knee. Unfortunately the prayer was not effective as my knee stiffened as the morning progressed! On my way to the second site I passed an old Synagogue, abandoned behind fences, its rendering in disrepair. Dating from the 19th century, there are plans to repair the building and open it as a cultural centre. Opposite are the two other sites, Bytča Castle and the Wedding Palace. Both closed today unfortunately but the outside views were impressive. The renaissance castle from 1591 was square in plan with a pointy tower at each corner and another tower above the entrance, all ringed by an outer wall. George Thurzo built the Wedding Palace in 1601 for his daughters' wedding banquets in renaissance style. According to the Internet there is a niche for the wedding bed where guests could see the marriage consummated. Not something I would fancy if I were the groom!

There are at least two good cukráreň in Bytča, both of which I sampled. At one I had a Dubai cheesecake and the other a strudel, but not an apple strudel, maybe gooseberry? Most people however were enjoying Saturday with an ice cream.

On my way to the centre I passed a graveyard. Many people were out polishing the granite slabs on their families' graves. Most graves had little lamps or flowers (possibly artificial), they looked cared for unlike some of those in Britain.

Back at my Penzion there was another function in progress, with disco lights and DJ, but my mind was on the next three days, which would be long. I was hoping my knee would hold out.

E3: Rajec to Bytča: Day 134

After crossing the first mountain I climbed up to a ridge which I followed for many more kilometres as cloud and rain moved in.

I did not hurry this morning as check in for my accommodation this evening was not until 6 pm, I also needed to visit the chemist to buy a strip of plasters. My wet left boot was rubbing the top of my toes making them sore. A length of fabric plaster solved the problem but it became wet and had to be replaced each day. I was running out of plasters so needed to buy some more. Showing the old packet to the shop keeper meant I soon had a new one.

Around 9:00 am I started off. My left knee was stiff this morning, so I swallowed an ibuprofen and until I stopped at Bytča, it did not complain too much. My day began with a climb up to the first summit, overtaking a group of young school children in a variety of cheerfully coloured clothing. A little after the path entered conifer fotest and grew steeper until I reached an observation tower at the top.  For the tower I could see the road on which I entered Rajec. The dark bluey green of the tree covered mountains contrasted with the more yellowy greens of the fields below.

After my descent from this first mountain I followed a path through beech trees up to a ridge, which was my destiny for the rest of the day. At first I was pleased, no overjoyed, that the path took a lateral approach. Gradually gaining height by following a line along the side of the ridge, rather than going straight up the slope in the usual way in these parts. In this gentle fashion the top of the ridge was reached.

However once on the ridge, the path ran north along its crest, not deviating from the highest points except when impeded by larger outcrops of rock. The usual roller coaster ensued, the trail rising up and down each summit, often steeply, slowing me down as I negotiated tree roots, slippery earth and rocks. At first, between the beech trees that grew on the ridge, I could see the valleys each populated by fields, villages and houses strung out along roads. Later the cloud came in and with it cold wind and rain. My field of view was limited to nearby trees and cliffs or sharp drops to my left, and steep wooded slopes to my right. With the hood of my coat up I faced the usual problem of my glasses misting up. Often I left my hood down, exposed to the rain so I could better see where the path went. This was not always obvious. Picking the wrong path I arrived at the top of a cliff on a precarious animal track. Instead the correct path dropped through a cleft in the cliff to my left, squeezed between the cliff and a tree, and then dropped rapidly for several feet until it stabilised as a viable footway.

I had been following the green waymarked path out of Rajec, then switched to the red path, which I hoped would result in me leaving the ridge in a gentle descent. This mistaken impression was soon removed as I climbed among a selection of large rocks. Conglomerates containing rounded pebbles. Had they not been lost among very tall beech trees these monstrous outcrops would have been impressive features, and probably widely praised as a giant's rock garden. One area was used for rock climbing according to the signs, but today there were no climbers and I saw only one couple walking in the ridge.

After the red path had entertained me with its structureless rock columns I joined the blue path which led me gratefully down to civilisation. Leaving trees for meadows, then grass for roads I passed through the village of Hrabové. A busy road, now waymarked in green, led me the final kilometres to Bytča.

As I have decided on a rest day tomorrow when I could investigate the town more thoroughly, I merely stopped for dinner, the time now 6 pm. A kebab and chips sufficed, the guy serving proudly telling me they made their own bread. Leaving the town for my Penzion, a little way out, I noticed a cake shop still open. So had a dessert of chocolate tort and an expresso lungo.

At my Penzion, a wedding reception was in full swing. Folk music was playing loudly, men in suits had abandoned their jackets and were smoking outside. Women in their best frocks sat at tables and children were screaming. Staff were hanging about, the meal service now over. One of them, who had a little English, struggled with my passport and the Penzion's IT system. Finally I was in my room and showering off the sweat of the day, looking forward to my evening phone call with my wife as my knee, having finished its day, became stiff and swollen. 

E3: Chata Javorina to Rajec: Day 133

Good and bad today in my descent to Rajec.

Breakfast at Chata Javorina was ham and eggs. I just pointed at what the people on the table next to me were having. I ate it looking out at the wet weather outside on the mountain top, raindrops on the window, cloud below. Forecasts have been deteriorating. Today was previously predicted as being dry but now has rain until later afternoon.

A mixture of paths and tracks today. Things went well at first crossing a number of nearby peaks in intermittent rain. There were views of clouds below and clouds above. 

After the early peaks there were attractive paths lined with wild garlic winding through the trees. Areas of beech trees replaced spruce trees for a while. Beech saplings crowded the path in places, depositing their accumulated water on me as I pushed through. My glasses repeatedly misted up beneath the hood of my rain jacket. Sadly the path lost height, dropping down to 990 metres, after which there were uphill sections to reach the summit of Hnilická Kýčera at 1217 metres. A straight climb might have been acceptable but the trail went over a series of minor summits, up and down repeatedly in a demotivating fashion as I knew each descent meant an extra ascent later on.

I finally reached the top of Hnilická Kýčera, the last of the high mountains today. The effort was not rewarded by a scenic view, I could see little except cloud and mist. Then I faced the challenge of going down. The descent was a wet, slippery, earth track that headed straight down the steep slope. There was no way you could go down it except on your bottom. Instead I kept diverting off the main track onto little paths people had made to manage a more controlled descent. I also trampled down vegetation off the path, breaking fallen branches underfoot, in an effort to achieve a grip, and get down with damaging my knee. Despite these efforts, in places a controlled slide was inevitable, I could see where others had done so from the skid marks. I yearned for the Alpine paths of the GR5 which zig zagged steadily up and down to passes higher than the mountains I have crossed today.

Eventually I reached Sedlo pod Hnilickou Kýčerou (at 1027 metres), a saddle where the E3 switches from the red waymarked path, heading south-west towards yet more high summits, to a green path going north-west to reach the E3 connection with the Czech Republic. A bell hung at the junction for some reason.

At first the green waymarked track descended quickly, albeit with a few bends rather than straight down. It then settled into a good track at a reasonable gradient followed by a low gradient tarmac road. After the stresses of the ridge path it felt wonderful to walk on the even surface of the road allowing my knee to relax a little. As if to agree the rain stopped and there were brief periods of sunshine, although the mountain tops were probably still wrapped in cloud. Several cyclists passed me first going up and later returning on the way down. Each side of the road, hugely tall spruce trees stretched up the steep valley sides. In a wetter area dark purple dusky crane's bill, mingled with chervil and gunnera.

Leaving the woodland it was a final push to get to Rajec in time for a coffee and cake. I had the cukráreň marked on my GPS but when I arrived at the location it looked like a house typical of the area, with what looked like a garage door on one side, a door of the type that normally leads to an area behind the house. Closer examination revealed a sign with the coffee shop openning times. Being within these I openned the door within the larger door, and beyond I found an entrance to the coffee shop. The strawberry cheesecake and expresso lungo was worth the effort.

Afterwards I went to the accommodation I had booked. A single storey house, one room wide, also entered via a door in what looked like a garage door. Furnished with old pieces of furniture, faded photographs and interesting paintings, the owner helpfully spoke English.

After a bath (there was no shower) I went to a restaurant in the main square. Eating on the terrace outside I watched kids cycle and skate around the square. There was a "beach" volleyball court in the centre where youngsters were messing around without actually having a proper game.

E3: Strečno to Chata Javorina: Day 132

A short day as a severe weather alert made me choose to stay at a mountain hut rather than wild camping a further along the trail.

The weather forecasts for today were for thunderstorms this afternoon. Being on an exposed ridge getting soaked was bad enough but the risk of lightening as well made me take action to mitigate the risks. This involved booking into a mountain hut, Chata Javorina, which was on my route and which I could reach by lunchtime. Unfortunately it means a longer day tomorrow, I may not get to Rajec, my destination, before the cake shop closes!

There was a misunderstanding over breakfast. I had agreed with a lady speaking a little English yesterday for breakfast at 7:30. However the lady this morning had me down for breakfast at 6:30, she showed me the written instruction she had received. My food, fried eggs and ham, was on the table, but having been cooked an hour earlier was rather cold! I ate it nevertheless, and was supplied with a hot coffee. Language confusion is inevitable at times, one just has to accept it.

This morning consisted of a long climb. Over 1200 metres of ascent through the forest, with views back down to the valley where trees have been cut down. The landscape falls into two distinct categories: on the flat valley floors, towns, villages and farmland; covering the hills and mountains darker green conifers with the occasional open meadow in a lighter shade. I spotted a flower I do not recall seeing before, called spreading bellflower.

On my way up, a large forestry vehicle dragging a collection of tree trunks stopped. He said something to me but being in Slovakian I do not know what. I said I was English and he shrugged his shoulders and headed off. Maybe it was to warn me that trees were being felled up the track, I could hear the sound of the chainsaw but did not get close, or he could have been warning me of the weather forecast.

On a particularly long steep section I missed a turning. Having climbed to the top of the slope I had no wish to go down again to find the path. Instead I took the risky decision of following a track that went in the right direction (ie up the ridge). Fortunately it met up with the path I should have been on, otherwise I would have been really upset.

The first milestone was reaching the summit of Mincŏl, the third mountain of that name on this trip (it means "mint"). On the way up there was an unexpected old artillery piece, reading up on the internet it appears to commemorate the Slovak National Uprising against the German occupation of Slovakia in 1944. 

While I was pleased to reach Mincŏl before any rain, I was less pleased with having to loose height before climbing up to the next summit. On the way a couple of mountain bikes came towards me. I made sure to stand off the side of the path so that we did not become entangled, as they passed I think they were saying thank you.

I was hurrying to reach the mountain hut before the rain started. A few spots fell as I walked behind the enclosure containing large aerials. As I approached the hut the rain increased, instead of putting my waterproofs on I tried to jog being so near (difficult with a rucksack). Then once I was inside the rain immediately stopped! Since then the rain showers have come and gone, I have watched the rain moving along the valley from the windows of the hut. No thunder or lightening. At least I have saved myself getting wet.

Communication with the lady running the hut has been cumbersome due to my inability to speak Slovak. All mountain huts seem to have different ways of diing things which does not help. We have been using the translation Apps on our phones. However I managed to get a lunch of goulash soup followed by apple strudel. For dinner fried cheese and chips. I thought I might have been alone in staying in the hut apart from the lady in charge and her small dog, but a few other hikers have now arrived. The television has been on in the dining room. Keir Starmer made an appearance on the news, but the main item was "problems with bears".

There has been rain, heavy at times, but it has now stopped raining. Fine weather is promised for tomorrow. 

E3: Pekelnik to Strečno: Day 131

Better weather today with good views from the high ridge, but a long, painful descent.

When I put my boots on this morning I discovered one of the laces had broken overnight while they lay in the "porch" area of my tent. Or perhaps not broken but eaten through by some tiny animal and then one of the two parts pulled out. I tied the two parts together and hoped that there would be no further breaks. 

In the night, leaving my tent for a call of nature, I saw a fuzzy orange moon, and far away in the valleys, lights from distant villages. Sadly, when I woke in the morning this scene had dissolved into a white mist. Starting early I was gladdened as the mist cleared as I walked. Wisps of cloud kept crossing my view driven by a cold wind, especially when I took out my camera to capture a scene, but when the sun lit the forested valleys above the cloud filled lowlands, with "islands" of hills poking through, it was amazing.

In the mud of the path I could see the footsteps of the people who had walked by my tent last night, and later this morning met a group of eight heading for one of the higher peaks. A few others were out walking lower down. Knowing that I am not the only person in the mountains gave me a sense that I am doing something that others appreciate too. Among the things to appreciate in these high mountains were the flowers, such as the blue trumpets of the Southern Gentian in clefts of rock and the purple orchids among the grasses.

I made the steep climb up to Malý Kriváň (1671 metres) and from this summit could see three peaks ahead of me on the ridge. The middle one was most concerning as it was a large stump of rock with scrub sized pines growing where they were able. This peak was called Biele Skaly and I approached it with trepidation. I could have bypassed it on a yellow trail, but I had memories of tree roots from the previous day and the path did not look well developed. Fortunately it was not raining today as it was a scramble up and down Biele Skaly on bare rock. Not difficult, there were plenty of hand and foot holds, but it was unexpected and progress was slow as I was being careful,  thinking of my age and lack of agility. 

After the final summit it was a steep drop down to a glade where Chata Pod Suchým was located. This was a mountain hut offering accommodation and food. However, when I looked in there seemed no-one around.

I continued on the ridge, at first pleasantly flat but then heading down steeply on a rough path. My knees were suffering and were not pleased when I spotted the river and the road beside it. My accommodation was at the same level as the river, and although the river and road were nearby (I could hear the cars) they were a long, long way down. 

Cursing the prolonged, steep descent and rough rocks I finally reached Starý Hrad (Old Castle). A square tower and a few walls remained of this fortress, which dates from the 13th century. Once I reached the comfort of a flat road beside the river I could see the castle which replaced it on the far side of the river, called Strečno Castle. Its ruins looked more extensive. 

I crossed the wide River Váh on a bridge for pedestrians and cyclists, cars have to use a ferry. Turning towards Strečno on the opposite side I spotted a stall selling ice cream and coffee, at which I indulged watching passing cyclists. There were many about, there seems a good cycle path beside the river.

Now in my hotel which is above a Pizzeria, where I of course had pizza for dinner.

E3: Zázrivá to Pekelnik: Day 130

Although it rained all day I found I managed the long ascent better than I expected. 

Suprisingly, my left knee did not have much fluid on it this morning. Maybe the effect of an early finish yesterday followed by use of my compression sleeve? First job this morning was to buy some food at the Coop for breakfast and wild camping tonight. After doing that I managed to buy an Expresso Lungo at the bar next door from the lady cleaning the tables.

Today was a walk along a ridge over numerous summits. I decided to divert around three of these summits. The first hill was a diversion off the road, which made little sense to me, I just followed the road. In doing so I passed three cabins selling local produce such as cheese and also coffee and tea as a sideline. None of them was doing any business on a rainy Monday morning. Feeling sorry for them I stopped for another coffee at a stall with chairs, sheltered from the rain by umbrellas, just before I left the main road.

Continuing up a side road and then a good track, I was pleased to gain some height on a good surface although sweating with the effort in my waterproofs.

Reaching a point where the E3 (waymarked with red) climbed over two summits I decided to follow a yellow route around them. I did not feel too guilty about this departure from the E3 as the visibility in the mountains could be measured in metres, there would be no views from them today. In addition the path over one of the summits was closed according to the "Mapy" app. It was a route involving ladders. Even if the path was open, climbing up and down ladders plus the associated rocks in the rain did not seem prudent.

I had feared that my yellow route might be blocked by fallen trees but it proved a pleasant and easy path to follow. Although there were some significant uphill sectioms much of it contoured the mountainside which I particularly appreciated.

After rejoining the E3 I took another opportunity to divert around a summit on a yellow trail. This one was not so successful. There was much climbing over the gnarly roots of trees on the side of the steep slope, and outcrops of rock requiring hands as well as feet. The continuing rain made everything slick and to avoid an accident I was forced to move at a crawl (sometimes literally), carefully picking where to place my feet.

Rejoining the E3 there was then a steep downhill. Water was running down the path turning the earth into a surface impossible to avoid slipping in. I diverted onto the surrounding vegetation among the trees and made full use of my trekking poles, placing them ahead of me for support as my muddy boots were not gripping.

Fortunately the path flattened out and I then made good progress along the ridge. There were numerous summits with rocks poking through, and the stones made for better grip. Each side of me the ridge dropped away steeply, disappearing into white mist. The ridge was free of trees and being so high up, on a clear day the views must be magnificent. I will be continuing along the ridge tomorrow and hopefully visibility will be better then. 

Now I was on higher ground there were flowers I had not seen before, such as delicate blue Alpine Snowbells, white and yellow Mountain Avens and blue Alpen-Kreuzeblume.

The highest peak I reached was Chleb at 1646 metres. After the peak there was a saddle, Snilovské Sedlo. Unlike previous days I encountered no shelters or covered areas where I could have lunch out of the rain. As Snilovské Sedlo was at the top of a couple of ski lifts I was hoping for something there, but the two cabins were both padlocked. I was forced to content myself with a "Snickers" eaten quickly before I became too cold.

Having crossed Pekelnik summit, the point I planned to reach today I started looking for a place to camp. Finding a flat area, sheltered somewhat from the wind coming over the ridge, I decided to pitch there. It was only 4 pm but the rain had now penetrated my waterproofs and I was beginning to feel cold, nor was I sure that any flat spots would be available later, much of the ridge is quite sharp. In addition tomorrow's forecast was better, so maybe I will be able to see the surrounding countryside.

Despite seeing no-one other than a shepherd with his dog and flock of sheep shortly after leaving the road, a few minutes after getting settled in my tent someone walked by talking to his phone or a companion. He did not stop. I was a little concerned as I had seen signs including the no camping symbol, but having not seen anyone I had not tried to hide my tent from the path.

Everything is pretty damp.

E3: Javorova to Zázrivá: Day 129

A tiring day, up and down mountains to the village of Zázrivá.

Having decamped I began my way down to the Prislop Pass. Fallen trees made the first part difficult and then the track downhill became worse as it was churned up by heavy forestry vehicles. On reaching an area of grassland things improved. There were chairs and a table with an information board referencing the E3, then a good stretch of meadow to walk across, first downhill then uphill. Eventually, another downhill track took me to Prislop Pass.

I was two hours too early for the café so I began the next section of trail by struggling over piles of gravel and rock being used for repairs of the road crossing the pass. After the pass there was a long period of uphill. I fondly remembered my walk on the GR5 in the French Alps, where you walked up to a pass and then down the other side. Whereas here, the E3 follows the high points of ridges, in consequence you walk down to a pass, and then head uphill as you leave it.

The climbing continued for much of the day's walk, reaching successively higher peaks. Initially it was on forest tracks, often deeply rutted and obstructed by fallen trees. I wondered if they had fallen naturally, but I often could not connect the tree with any nearby broken stump. Possibly they came down as collateral damage when foresters felled larger trees and they were then pulled out of the way. Then there was a change, the route switched to a pleasant path that wound around younger fir trees with blueberry bushes each side. There was areas of grassland today where I spotted the dwarf yellow cinquefoil, its bright colours enhancing the landscape.

The highest point was Mincŏl at 1394 metres (the second mountain I have crossed with this name). Just before the summit, half hidden by mist, there were three ski lifts and a couple of towers with multiple aerials. At the summit sign post a couple of day walkers were having a sandwich. I carried on but they later overtook me, moving much quicker and more confidently than myself on the slippery downward track.

Zázrivá, the village where I had booked accommodation, seemed to take a long time to arrive, with an extra hill in the way that I was not expecting. Timings on signs were optimistic, at least for myself. However all things come in the end. On entering the settlement I spotted an ice cream stall where I, of course, stopped for a cone.

Having booked into my appartment, completed my chores, rewarded myself by phoning my wife, I then went to investigate the restaurant. Sadly they were not serving food tonight (Sunday) and the waiter indicated you needed a car to reach the next place open. (I had to use Google Translate as no English appeared to be spoken in this village). I settled for a beer and peanuts while watching the house martins swoop around the square. I will eat my emergency rations tonight and buy more tomorrow morning when the shops are open.

The mountains around me looked very high, it looks like it could be a tough day tomorrow especially as rain is forecast.