E3: Vel'ky Saris to Sedlo Priehyby: Day 122

A good day covering a reasonable distance with good views and lunch at a mountain hut.

I left my hotel early as I discovered there was a mountain hut on my route where I could have lunch if I arrived in time. First I followed the road into the next village Kanaš. Although only 7:30, men were out cutting the grass along the sides of the road. A stream of cars were coming towards me, off to work I assumed. Entering the side roads of Kanaš between the detached bungalows, the traffic died down. The rows a different coloured bins outside the houses looked very organised: blue for paper, yellow for plastic, etc.. Soon I was on a path through woodland, climbing steadily through the trees. 

I was pleased to find a spring with running water coming from the little house constructed on top of it. There were even a few baskets in which someone who cared about the place, was trying grow flowers. After the spring it was downhill through an open field to the road into Terňa. 

At Terňa I stopped at the Coop Supermarket for a few more supplies including a banana and kitkat for a late breakfast sitting on a wall by the church, watching the comings and goings. Then a little more road walking, uphill, by a large field of yellow rape to the next village of Hradisko.

After Hradisko there was more climbing, although not too steeply through the woods along a ridge. Intermittently there would be a cross or small shrine, a sign of the country's religiosity. Often there would be crude benches beside them making them suitable spots for a picnic. I also crossed the E8, a European Long Distance Path I have yet to walk.

Today the trees were more varied. In addition to the usual beech I crossed an area of hornbeam and there were lesser numbers of field maple, hazel, crab apple and other species. Higher up, above 900 metres there were also birch trees and conifers; spruce and larch. Some of the conifers were in stands, no doubt planted by foresters, others were mixed in with the deciduous trees. In places there were meadows at or beside the top of the ridge, above the trees lower down. This meant I could see the surrounding forested hillsides and maybe more distant fields and mountain ranges.

Rain was forecast around 11:00 and again late in the afternoon. This duly arrived causing me to stop and put on my waterproofs with the difficult decision of whether it was worth struggling into my waterproof trousers. Although the rain makes walking less pleasant I was glad it was falling as the farmers needed it and I hoped it would make the springs more reliable.

As planned I reached the mountain hut, Chata Čergov, in time for lunch. It was among a scattered collection of buildings which included a short ski lift. There was no obvious sign announcing the hut until you climbed the steps up to the door, where opening times were posted. As I was within these times I opened the door and boldly walked in. A man with a paint roller in hand seemed surprised to see a customer but after he had called another man and a woman, it was established that I would like something to eat. Chicken and chips were offered and accepted, I declined a vodka or rum, and we agreed on coffee and water. I ate my lunch, as the only customer, watching an ice hockey match on the large TV. The fast moving sport is immensely popular in Slovakia.

After just over 30 kilometres I decided to stop, not wanting to be too tired tomorrow. I am camped on an area of grass, probably the most comfortable spot of my trip so far, closed to a free flowing, piped spring where I can top up my water supply in the morning. 

As I lie here in the cosiness of my sleeping bag a cuckoo and blackbird is singing, and beyond them others in the background. 

E3: Prešov to Vel'ky Saris: Day 112

A short day before longer days to come, walking in a circuit around Prešov.

As there would be a few days in the mountains where I would likely be wild camping, and as fluid had been accumulating on my left knee, I decided to take advantage of the last hotel on my route for some days and walk only 20 kilometres. The E3 first headed west out of Prešov, then north and finally north east. This semi-circular route meant I ended up only a few kilometres north of Prešov!

A bridge was being replaced on my route out of the city so a diversion up the river to the next bridge and back was required. A pleasant diversion on a path beside the river among students off to their lectures and people walking their dogs. So different from Romania I thought, there I feared the loose, aggresively barking dogs. In Slovakia, although there were still dogs noisily announcing my passing from the safety of their gardens, there were also well behaved canines out for a walk with their owners, more like in Britain.

Leaving the urban streets I climbed into wooded hills on an intricate route to reach Cemjata. The village is known for its mineral springs, there was one below a circular shelter. In tasting the water I found it saline. Then I noticed a sign above which says not to drink the water. There were a number of elderly people being pushed around in wheelchairs, associated with a facility for seniors. Sadly no coffee shop.

I continued on the route on my GPS, however the E3 had been diverted. As I was unsure of where the new route went I stuck with the one on my gps. As I walked down a gravel road a convoy of cars came from the opposite direction, including two police cars which was mildly concerning. Then I passed an area where they must have been practicing with their guns. Lines of old tyres were being used to absorb any stray bullets, and should they be ineffective, signs warned of the potential risk of accidentally being shot. However the last car was leaving so I felt safe.

On reaching Mali Saris and rejoining the diverted red route, I stopped for a snack and drink sitting on a bench in the children's playground, which felt mildly wrong for a middle age man (although there were no children). Then it was a road walk by large yellow, green and brown fields to Vel'ky Saris, where a cabin selling ice creams in a square could not be avoided. While eating my ice cream cone and drinking a coffee a man, curious as to what brought me to the village, asked if I was a cyclist. Perhaps the lack of a bike and my large backpack with trekking poles sticking out of it should have been a clue. However I explained I was walking, heading north.

It was then a short hike to my hotel beside a busy road (there seemed to be several busy roads circling Prešov which I have either walked under or across). I am now resting my knee, keeping it elevated on my bed with its knee support on to try and disperse the fluid before longer, steeper walks in the coming days. However staying stationary has negative effects on my back, stiffening it up. From the window, beyond the traffic and a large field of grass is a big brewery on the right, a row of houses on the left and beyond that an isolated, forested mountain with a castle on top. With my dinner (duck confit on red cabbage with grilled vegetables, a pancake(!) and a huge puffy-white dumpling served separately) I drank a beer from the brewery.

E3: Rest day in Prešov: Day 111

A rest day in which I visited the old centre of Prešov.

This morning I caught the trolley bus into the centre of Prešov. I remembered these vehicles from my youth in Britain. They have long since dissappeared in the UK but I still wondered how the long arms stayed attached to the overhead wires (they are pushed onto the wire by springs according to the Internet).

Slovakia only came into existence in 1993, a short period in the Second World War is excluded, and I wondered what made it coalesce into a distinct entity. For centuries it had been part of either the Ottoman or the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so how had a unique Slovak identity remained? The Slovak language is of the Slavic group similar to Czech and other Eastern European languages. I could understand why Slovaks were distinct from Hungarians with their quite different language, and I imagine the Slovaks were second class citizens compared with Hungarians during the Empire period, which would have engendered solidarity. In addition, perhaps the Carpathian Mountains, which I would be following, gave a natural boundary with Poland.  However I was surprised about the split from the people of the Czech Republic. I asked a man selling coffee from a trailer in the central area of the old town. He said it was partly because Slovakia came under Hungarian influence while the Czechs were under Austrian influence during the Empire period. In addition he said the Slovaks were quite religious and the Czechs were not. Although Roman Catholicism is the main religion in both countries Wikipedia states that in Slovakia 68.8% of the people count themselves as Christians as opposed to only in 11.7% in the Czech Republic.

Today I visited the Roman Catholic Cathedral in the centre of Prešov. When I first tried to enter a well attended service was in progress so I returned later. Even then, there were many people in the pews praying. I joined them with a pray for the health of my knee and my wife's happiness. Sunlight shining through the modern stained glass windows cast soft orange coloured light patterns over the nearby pews. I also visited the Greek Catholic Cathedral. This denomination accepts the leadership of the pope but follows the Orthodox Christian rites dating from Byzantine times. Although I tried to visit the Synagogue it was locked up despite signs stating it should be open. As in similar places in Eastern Europe the Jewish population was decimated in the Second World War.

Lining the main strip of the old town, beyond the lines of young maple trees, were buildings all dating from before the First World War, with ornate rendering on the outside. Each building was painted in a different pastel colour. Visiting one for cake and another for a more healthy salad for lunch, I noted how they both had barrel vaulted ceilings inside.

After some shopping, chores and eating pancakes for dinner I watched the Slovak news on the TV in my room. I guessed the subjects, one of which was about the current drought in Slovakia affecting the crops. I confirmed this by an internet search. Made me worry that there would not be any water at the springs. The maize and sunflower crops on the TV also looked pretty miserable. Was it a result of the changing climate? I worried about all the verdent beech trees, would the forests which covered the hills I was walking through survive?

E3: Čierna Hora to Prešov: Day 110

A woodland walk into Prešov in persistent rain, followed by my enjoyment of hotel and city life.

I slept soundly despite the rounded rocks beneath me, however as 6 am approached I needed a wee and decided to pack up. On leaving my tent I admired the surrounding white wood anemones covering the ground, and the mist making more distant trees fade into whiteness.

My morning began with a climb to the top of Čierna Hora, my first summit at 1073 metres, the highest on my trip so far. A few ups and downs followed as I meandered along paths through the mist shrouded woodland. Then a long, steep uphill section seemed unending. However at the top I was pleased as sign indicated that I had reached the top of Tri Chotáre, at 1025 metres, it was almost the last big mountain on my route today. The fingerposts were reassuring, slowly decreasing the amount of time needed to reach Prešov. After Tri Chotáre there was an area of meadow, with seats under a shelter and an information board. I had passed several such shelters on my trip but this one had a "living roof" with wild flowers and grasses growing on it, which I thought my neighbours at home would like. Although the information board was in Slovak, I gained the impression that the meadow was being managed to encourage biodiversity. I guess deer could graze on the grass then dissappear into the surrounding woodland if disturbed. However the nearby hunting tower suggested that they risked being shot.

As I continued I heard gunshots off to my right. Not hunters as there were too many in close succession. Later I saw a few green army trucks, so I assume the shots were soldiers practicing.

Although I had no need to climb the final hill, I walked up the short distance to the castle ruins on top, called Zbojnicky Hrad. Dating from the 13th century only a few low walls were now standing, topped by a fraying Slovak flag. A board was illustrated with the panorama before it, labelling all the places you could see, except today you could not. It had been raining continuously since shortly after I set off this morning (and my tent was wet from overnight rain). The views varied from white mist to low clouds.

Nevertheless from the castle I knew it was a short distance to the village of Ruská Nová Ves where there was a Coop supermarket. Ignoring the men with beer bottles outside I went in and bought a Coke and some chocolate which I ate in the dry of a bus shelter. Greatly revived I continued along the road into Prešov. 

I am now booked into a hotel for two nights. A chance to regain strength and rest my left knee which is now swollen (on the plus side my back ache seems to have been chased away by my continued movement). As I was extremely wet on entering the hotel I was a little embarrassed as I dripped on the floor. Fortunately the receptionist made no comment. Clothes are drapped around the room drying. Despite the discomfort of walking in the rain in full waterproofs I am hoping that it causes the springs to flow again. It is also needed to maintain the vivid green of all the beech trees, and water the occasional hawthorns now in flower. After my chores I visited a patisserie for a latte and cheesecake, part of a nearby retail park, I was in that part of town.

For dinner I caught a bus into the old centre to visit a restaurant the Internet recommended for Slovak food. The place was not obvious from the street, although there was a sign that led below an arch, then a closed door with Slovak words on it. I tentatively opened the door and walked down steps. The restaurant was in the old, brick vaulted cellars. Eventually a waitress approached, said sit down and gave me a long menu. There were two other tables each with several burly men in black sweat shirts. The waitress returned before I had time to digest the numerous offerings, so I asked her to recommend a Slovak dish. She said something with dumplings and pointed to a page in the menu. I picked the top item and also asked for soup. The chicken noodle soup had lots of carrots which was welcome as I was missing vegetables. For the main course the dumplings were like gnocchi in a cheese sauce with bits of bacon on top. 

I successfully caught the bus back to the hotel and am now in bed on the fifth floor, with the curtains open so I can see the orange street lights and those in the surrounding appartment blocks. Cities always look good in the dark.

E3: Herl'any to Čierna Hora: Day 109

A day following a wooded ridge.

A little after I had left Herl'any, as I was beginning the climb back up to the ridge line following green waymarks, I met another hiker. He was a Slovak, out for the day, aiming for a viewpoint.  As we were following the same track at similar speeds and he had a little English, we shared a few words before he turned off for his destination. After swapping our planned destinations and commenting on the surrounding trees I asked about the lack of water from springs. He said that there had been very little rain recently. On later checking the Internet I read that Slovakia had the driest April since records began. Despite this I did find some water at the two springs I investigated today. Many of the springs have a depression dug out to collect the water, on top of which a little house is placed to stop it being filled with leaves etc.. At the springs I visited there was water in the depression but it was still, there was no flow. I collected some but added a water purification tablets as the water was stagnant.

This morning was sunny as I rejoined the trail marked with red stripes, but later it clouded over and grew dark. Rain was forecast but it only amounted to a few short showers. Apart from a few modest meadows today was all through trees, mainly beech. On one steep slope crossed by my track, many trees had been uprooted by a storm, those that the wind had pushed over crashed into others causing their trunks to break in a mass of splinters. Fortunately the fallen trees had been cleared off the track otherwise my passage would have been much delayed by having to go over, under or around them.

There was much climbing up hills today, at times very steeply. Along the ridge there are numerous summits, some the route bypassed but for others it was a climb up followed by the inevitable deacent, sometimes steeply. Due to the trees there were few views, the exceptions were where trees had been cut down. Some summits were marked by outcrops of volcanic rock, one peak had a profusion of towers and aerials another had a simple wooden cross. As I reached higher elevations, the beech trees had smaller leaves, maybe at the cooler higher altitudes growth had been delayed. My total ascent today was well over 1200 metres, which is appreciable, so my tiredness is to be expected after walking around 27 kilometres. I would have liked to walk further to minimise the effort needed to reach Prešov tomorrow but the map suggested I had walked far enough and I was tired. Seeing a seemingly flat area I decided to pitch my tent, before the next climb up to the top of Čierna Hora. Sadly, the ground was less even than it looked with hidden stones, too big to be removed. I will just curl myself around them when I sleep tonight.

When I went out to brush my teeth the mist had gathered around the trees and a song thrush was singing me a sweet goodnight.

E3: Dargovský Priesmyk to Herl'any: Day 108

A tiring day up into the mountains and back down again, rewarded by a pleasant stay at Herl'any, although I missed the Geyser.

I was pleased this morning that my back did not make my walking excessively painful, and my left knee was also in abeyance. Fortunate as even without these maladies I struggled with the climb and then the descent today.

First, after a short walk I reached Dargovský Priesmyk, a pass crossed by a busy road. Between December 1944 and January 1945 heavy fighting took place here between the advancing Soviet Red Army and German troops, with many casualties, especially on the Soviet side. A memorial to the fallen Soviet troops lies on one side of the road. I was impressed that wreaths, albeit of artificial flowers, had been left there. Evidence that the loss of life is still remembered. A Second World War tank and self propelled gun stood on one side of the road, next to where several lorries were parked. From the state of the kiosk and what may once have been a restaurant, they had closed some time ago.

A little after the pass, the trail began rising steeply. After climbing through the forest I reached an area where the trees had been clear felled. Densely spaced beech saplings had grown from the beech mast that had dropped on the ground from the long gone trees, creating a bright green, furry cloak across the valley. Curiously, the foresters had left the occasional tree uncut, some were dead but others were still bearing leaves. Standing alone, defiant, they looked vulnerable to being felled by high winds. Higher up I entered meadows with a few more flowers, as well as speedwells and dandelions there were (according to my App) green strawberry and yellow hawkweed (and later, under the trees, delicate white sand rockcress). The lack of trees meant I could see the surrounding area.

I reached a summit called "Lazy" which I thought ironic after the long climb. Attached to a fingerpost indicating directions and timings there was a metal box. Inside was a book and pen where people had recorded their visit. I added a note then looked for any others written in English. There was only one, entered on the 4th May which said "May the Fourth be with you".

Further on, back in the trees I reached a fingerpost which had the E3 continuing in two different directions. I was not aware there were options. The trails in Slovakia had been well marked with fingerposts referencing the E3 and the colour of the waymarks painted on trees and rocks along the trail that it followed. The waymarks were three horizontal stripes: white; a colour, then white again. I had been following those with a red stripe, but the sign indicated that to reach Herl'any, my next planned destination, I needed to switch to the blue stripes. Both red and blue waymarks were signed as the E3.

The blue route descended along a path which became indistinct. Beech saplings and fallen or felled trees obscured the path. Finding which way to go was a puzzle, pushing through the vegetation more difficult still. If it were not for the occasional blue waymarks I would have given up and found another route. After entering more mature forest, where the shade from the tall trees discouraged the growth of saplings or any other vegetation, the route became easier to follow.

The next challenge was a steep downhill section, strewn with moss covered boulders. Fortunately the weather was sunny and the earth dry today. If the ground had been wet, negotiating the slope would have resulted in many slips and slides with painful consequences if I had hit a rock.

At the bottom the route crossed a track but the inward section was blocked by stacked tree trunks, recently cut. Rising a few metres the pile of wood extended laterally for 30 metres or more. Finding a way around took a few attempts pushing through nettles and branches over uneven ground. Eventually I reconnected with the blue waymarks. 

All the climbing up mountains and over rocks made me excessively tired although I had only walked 15 kilometres. The timings on the fingerposts to reach places was optimistic for the pace I was able to maintain. I was very glad to reach my accommodation. It was the only place on booking.com in the area, a modern semi-detached house. 

After showering and completing my chores, I drapped my washing over the outside chairs and walked down to the Herl'any Geyser. Here water erupts on an irregular basis from a hole drilled in the 19th century. I waited a while before checking the village website, where I discovered that the next eruption was not expected until midday tomorrow. Still it was enjoyable sitting watching families enjoying the sunshine in the surrounding park, and observing visiting cyclists out for a Sunday ride.

I have been trying to convince myself that I can walk along the E3 to the town of Prešov in two days, in theory 24 kilometres each day, with a few mountains to conquer. However as I have not yet booked accommodation there, which implies a lack of confidence.

E3: Woods after Jezero Izra to Dargovský Priesmyk: Day 107

In addition to passing through a landscape of trees I visited Slanec and its castle.

Walking was painful when I started out today, the right side of my back did not want my right leg to move. I told myself that the agony would subside as I continued to walk, and so it proved. Then my left knee became painful, so around lunchtime I put on my knee support but it was of limited benefit. 

Slanec was further from where I camped than I expected, taking me over two hours to reach the road leading into it. The E3 does not go through the village, diverting to the north of it. However my plan was to visit the village centre for some supplies and refreshments and rejoin the E3 by the castle ruins which stand over the town. 

With such thoughts I entered Slanec, picking up more water from the shop. Sadly the cukráreň was closed, despite it being advertised as open, so I missed my hoped for coffee and cake. Then I climbed up to Slanec castle.

The castle dated from the 13th century and was built on a steep sided hill. Despite its defensive position it fell and was abandoned in the 17th century, only a wall and a tower remain. Rusty scaffolding encased the section of wall.

Most of my walk today was on forestry roads, either gravel or tarmac. A few sections diverted onto paths. These were often overgrown with beech saplings and nettles, or blocked by fallen trees, so eventually I chose the tarmac if the opportunity allowed. Among the chatter of the bird song, I frequently heard cuckoos  calling. At one point I disturbed a deer which ran off. Being Saturday there were many cyclists out for a ride, free wheeling down the hills, and a few people out for a walk. A serious group carrying rucksacks passed me going in the opposite direction but did not stop to say "hello" or Ahoy.

I have passed a few signs saying Ťažba Dreva, which Google Translate told me meant "Wood felling". The rest of the sign I examined today with Google said entry was prohibited. At that point I had already passed through the area. No wood felling was a taking place, although there were stacks of logs and an old machine used to drag tree trunks down to the road.

There are not as many flowers on the wayside as I might have expected, although there were areas of white flowers which my App identified as coralroot bittercress. I have passed occasional crucifixes, often mass produced affairs. One today had a candle in a red glass candle holder. I was surprised it had been lit in a fairly remote location. 

Later in my trip I planed to collect water from springs. I had waymarked their locations on my gps and checked the ones on my route today. Sadly at the first, close to Slanec, only an occasional drip came from the pipe which collected the spring water. Later in the day I stopped at a second spring which was also failing to deliver any water. This had implications, if I could not obtain water from springs later in my trip, lengthy diversions to villages lower down the wooded mountains would be necessary. 

Tonight I am again wild camping but I have not reached the area I had planned to stop. I was too ambitious in my planning, underestimating the mileage. My various failings are also slowing me down. So tomorrow I have booked a house to stay in at a village I am passing.