Liberec Rest Day: Day 169

A day in Liberec, formerly Reichenberg.

Liberec was the biggest town on this trip and an opportunity to both rest and learn a bit of history. For the latter reason I booked a guided tour. Like all of what is now the Czech Republic, Liberec was originally part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In this area most people spoke German. Its textile industry was responsible for the towns growth, it prospered in the 18th and 19th century when the old centre of the town was built. There was money to do it with style. The neo renaissance town hall dominates the main square with its towers, balconies and carved friezes.

There were a few setbacks such as plague and the Battle of Reichenberg between Prussia and Austria that took place here in 1757. Liberec was part of the German speaking Sudetenland that was ceded to Hitler at the Munich conference in 1938. My guide had a photo of Hitler on the town hall balcony after the Nazis occupied the area. Immediately following the Second World War the Germans were expelled at short notice, whether they had supported the Nazis or not, and the city resettled with Czech people. More recently Soviet and Warsaw Pact tanks entered the city to suppress the Prague Spring in 1968, watched by my guide, then a boy. People were shot, jeans with bullet holes were on display at the town's museum and there was a memorial beside the town hall. In the 20th century the textile industry was been replaced by factories making autoparts and similar.

I reached the city centre from my hotel on the outskirts by tram. Curiously each line had three rails. My guide told me that this was because historically there were trams with two different gauges (i.e. the distance between their wheels) running in the city. They have now standardised on a single gauge. Another Item I had commonly seen in towns and villages on my trip were columns, used for advertising. 

I visited two of the museums. One of the engineers who studied in the city was Ferdinand Porsche, designer of the the Volkswagon Beetle and fast sports cars. This was highlighted by the Porsche Targa in the Technical Museum where it shared space with an Austin Seven, Ford Model T and other classics. I now find it strange that items like reel to reel tape recorders, that were familiar from my youth, are now museum pieces.

Also near the centre was a big, modern mall with international names such as Starbucks and Tescos. Such places are similar across the world.

I ate at a place doing grilled food tonight. To one side of the restaurant people were playing football in a netted area. On the big screen TV is an ice hockey match, a sport loved in this country. I decided on another beer.

Na Kneijpe to Liberec: Day 168

Leaving the mountains I reached the city of Liberec today, with multiple opportunities for snacks on the way.

Overnight a new blister bulged on my left heal, on the site of an old blister which I thought had healed. Pain pierced my heel every time I put my weight on it which made me hobble down the road. Eventually, the pain eased and I was distracted by8 sunny skies, blue with scraps of cloud. Although the track was still dark and damp in the shadow of the surrounding trees, the promise of the rising sun, after a few damp days, filled me with happiness. Steam was rising from the ground where the sun warmed it, sunbeams shot through the trees.

Not having eaten anything when I decamped, my hunger encouraged me to enter the closed doors of a restaurant to see if they could offer breakfast. The answer was no, but they could provide soup with bread and coffee which I gladly accepted. I was at Nová Louka where once glass was made. Earlier I had walked through Kristiánov, another small settlement in the forest where a glass making factory once stood. There was now a Glass Making Museum at Kristiánov, which I passed hours before it openned. Over a hundred years ago both were run by the Riedel family, who still produce quality glassware in Austria. I was proudly shown a cabinet with glassware and a book signed by the latest Riedel when he visited to join the celebration of 250 years since glass making started in the area. Presumably the availability of wood was the reason glass was made here. Apparently a lot of it was required. A dam was built nearby to create a lake that powered a sawmill, needed to cut up wood for the glass furnaces.

I progressed to the village of Bedřichov. A large board described how the village was home to the Jizerská 50, which is now a series of cross-country skiing races. Czechs dominated the winners in the early years but as the competition became more international Norwegians tended to come first. Although to early in the year for snow and skiing, the village was busy with people this Saturday morning. Young children watched by a parent practiced on a climbing wall; cyclists gathered for a ride; families with children headed out with wicker baskets to pick mushrooms; another group of small children were each handed a clothes peg (for unknown reasons); older couples set off for walks; a group of men stood waiting to do something while buses brought more people up from the city of Liberec. I watched while enjoying a second coffee, this time with a pastry at a stall.

It was then downhill through the forest into the city. A confusion of tracks used by those walking dogs and children meant I had to pick my way carefully. Reaching the city by the zoo I continued along a strip of park until stopped by a sign for a Cukrárna. Another coffee with a cake followed. Following signs into the old centre of the city I had my final coffee with a filled bagel for lunch.

After shopping for supplies in a large mall I eventually reached my hotel on the outskirts of the city. After washing clothes and other chores, and a more pleasurable phone call to my wife, I decided to have dinner at a nearby establishment I had passed. I had thought it a more typical Czech establishment than the restaurant at the hotel, however it turned out to be Bulgarian!

Jakuszyce to Na Kneijpe: Day 167

A return to the Czech Republic today, with more forested mountains and protruding rocks.

Leaving the luxury of my hotel of last night I walked the 5 kilometres to Harrachov crossing the border from Poland into Bohemia, part of Czechia a.k.a. the Czech Republic. Now that there are no border controls in the Schengen area, the buildings that once served waiting vehicles have become unwanted and delapidated. There was a lonely "For Sale" sign beside one today. Only the tatty exchange office was still in operation where I swapped zlotys for korunas. 

In Harrachov centre there was a glass factory with a shop selling their wine glasses, vodka glasses and lots of elegant, delicate and by the look of it fragile, glassware. Apparently this area is famous for its glass products. My immediate interest however was the coffee shop beside it where I had an early latte and cake.

I left Harrachov by walking up the hill to the railway station which was some distance away. A train had arrived and a coach was waiting to take passengers down to the village, although I could only see two people leaving the station so the coach might leave rather empty. As the railway loops around the mountains the views from the windows must be pretty good.

Continuing down the other side of the ridge I soon reached the River Jizera. My route then turned up the valley, the river on my right was occasionally visible through the trees; peaty brown water tumbling over boulders. Two large groups of cyclists raced passed me going downhill. Some looked excited by their speed, others worried. I saw no-one cycling up, so possibly the bikes had been transported to the top making for an easy ride. 

My first destination was Jizerka. This scattering of large wooden buildings were located in a large meadow area surrounded by forest on a plateau. The buildings, which included two hotels, were spaced out, so there was no clustering to form a village centre. On the single track road there were few cars but plenty of couples out walking, groups of cyclists and a cluster of people on disability scooters.

After a gravel road my route continued on a rough track, where I moved from rock to rock, in what I thought was a graceful manner. A few outcrops of granite protruded from the forest, similar to those seen previous days. These geological features appeared to be the destination of many of those out walking. Although I could probably have managed to climb to the top of these small "tors", especially as iron rings had been cemented into one outcrop, I decided against it. Although not raining, the day was damp and misty, visibilty poor, the rocks wet and I had far to go. 

The route however took me through a hole in the boulders surrounding one outcrop. A squeeze with my rucksack so I wondered how the cyclists got their bikes through. Tracks in the mud showed a party had come this way.

My next destination was Smedava, where there was a hotel too expensive to contemplate. A little before was another black lake reflecting the trees beyond, similar to the one I saw yesterday. Both were created by building small stone dams. After Smedava I was aiming for a kiosk selling food, which I hoped to reach before it closed. I did not succeed. However, outside the small wooden building was a selection of beers, snacks etc.. There did not appear to be an honesty box, and I could see no prices. I wondered if they were free, what in the USA is called trail magic. As I actually had plenty to eat, my interest in the kiosk was more to add variety. I left with taking anything.

A little after I diverted to a small wooden tower where I looked down on a small area of bog. The relevant authorities were clearly pround of it. Among the reddish grass there were a few ponds, two ducks were enjoying one of them.

As darkness would soon fall I started looking for a discreet place to camp, not easy as the trees were densely packed, the uneven ground was wet and any dryer areas covered with blueberry bushes. My selected location is only a little off the road, but as it is behind a line of trees I doubt anyone will notice me.

E3 in Poland: Some Comments

A couple of memories of the E3 in Poland. Firstly there were a lot of forested mountains to cross. Among the trees, almost hidden by them, were outcrops of granite and gneiss. Practice for mountain and rock climbers even though not excessively high.

Secondly there was the history. The magnificant forts of Srebna Góra and Grodno. The German Spa towns with the old pump house at Lądek-Zdrój and the flowers of Szczawno Zdrój.

Thirdly there were the chapels, churches, crosses and shrines. Evidence of the commitment to faith of the Polish people. 

Mushroom pickers were much in evidence at this time of year (September).

Waymarking was generally good. Except at the very beginning and end the E3 followed the blue waymarks. However, signs and waymarking was not perfect and a gpx track, App or map is needed to navigate the route. Most nights accommodation was available and although I wild camped a few nights with nore effort this could have been avoided. There were no official campsites on the route as far as I know.

Wojcieszyce to Jakuszyce: Day 166

Rain meant I put my waterproofs on and just kept walking through the dark forest, as a result I reached Jakuszyce rather quickly.

Not having seen any evidence of the breakfast promised on booking.com I ate food from my own supplies and shocked myself by successfully using the apartment's posh coffee machine for a morning cup of "kawa". Then, just as I was about to leave, a man appeared with a boxed breakfast. It later became my lunch.

Leaving the village I looked back to see the houses of the settlement folded into the landscape. Like so many of the villages hereabouts it formed a strip down a valley, that itself was trending downhill. Soon after the rain began. Based on the forecast I knew it would be heavy so quickly put on my waterproofs. After an easy walk to the first village the first climb of the day began. After a steady but steep ascent I reached a group of rocks outcropping among the trees. A feature I now recognised as typical of the area I had been walking through. There were crude steps cut in the crystalline rock followed by steep metal steps that led to a fenced viewing area. Climbing up I was careful, fearing a slip on the wet, lichen covered stone. My efforts gave me little reward. As I expected, rain and clouds meant that all I could see was a large boulder balanced on the top and the tree tops beyond.

After the rocks my route was kind to me, with generally good tracks I made fast progress. A chocolate bar I had bought earlier gave me extra energy. I skirted the top of the village of Kopaniec, otherwise it was a day among the trees. Although mainly conifer forest today, occasional beech and birch beside the trail had overnight become tinged with yellow. It reminded me that astronomical Autumn started two days ago. Heavy rain meant I worried it would permeate the dry bags in my rucksack, in the event everything was fine but I was glad that crucial items like my passport were double bagged.

Eventually I reached a road where my long enjoyment of the blue route came to end. Now I followed green waymarks to the Czech border. First, there was my second steep climb of the day. Rising straight up the mountainside, tree roots formed a natural if irregular staircase. They kept the soil and rubble together that otherwise would be eroded by the passage of feet and the action of water, currently streaming down the hillside as the rain continued at a slightly gentler pace. There was a sharp, clean smell, reminding me a little of chlorine. Maybe it was from the wet spruce trees.

I briefly explored a few abandoned buildings that might have been the top of a quarry on my map. A little after I was pleased to find a shelter with benches and a tables to enjoy my lunch. Unfortunately the turf roof was not completely effective at keeping out the rain but better than sitting eating on the side of the trail.

Signs had given contradictory distances to Jakuszyce, where my hotel is. One said two hours the next two hours forty five minutes. However my feet soon ate the distance on a good road, tarmaced in part. I briefly diverted to see a small, back, artificial lake. The sign had said "Water Drawing Point". Trees reflected nicely in the water with pleasing symmetry.

Reaching the hotel I was surprised I had achieved the 26.7 kilometres coming from my accommodation last night at 3.9 kilometres per hour with a 950 metre elevation gain. As I was tired the previous day, despite its shorter distance, this was unexpected. The hotel was modern and posher than expected. Bicycles were prominent in the porch area, there were many tracks for mountain bikes in the area and cyclists seem to form a good slice of the hotel's summer clientele. In winter cross-country skiing was the reason people came. As I walked down the corridor to my room at the far end, lights progressively came on as if leading me into a time tunnel in a science fiction film.

After the buffer dinner I sampled the Polish vodka as tomorrow I would be in the Czech Republic having completed the Polish part of the E3. The barman gave me a shotglass of glass(?) vodka and a traditional one, which was slightly brown, presumably aged in barrels. The traditional one was my preferred choice, slightly sweet. I hoped my sampling of their merits did not have adverse effects tomorrow. 

Jezioro Pilchowickie to Wojcieszyce: Day 165

A beautiful morning, partly by water.

My surroundings in the first few hours of the day were beautiful. The warm, low sun lit up leaves on the trees, cast shadows across my path, and made the river to my left sparkle through the trees. After leaving my camping spot on the forested valley side, the first water I could just about see was the River Bóbr, which feeds the reservoir I saw yesterday. It had cut a deep channel in the wasteland left by the receding water caused by the low level of the water in the reservoir. A side path marked with a blue triangle took me to a group of rocks. There were crude steps and a short ladder to a fenced area on top of the outcrop where one could see a little over the trees. Low clouds drifting in the valleys.

Blue waymarks showed that the gpx track on my GPS was incorrect. As Mapy.com confirmed the route headed inland over fields, a more open landscape which I appreciated as among woodland the distance I could see was limited. It took me through the edge of Barcinek. From all the private property and "you are being monitored" signs together with barking Alsatians I assumed wealthy people had houses there. 

Returning to the trees I reached another dam on the River Bóbr, or maybe it was a very tall weir, as a large amount of water was pouring over the wide sluice gate in a spectacular fashion. Looking down the river from a footbridge over the weir it looked as if too much water was flowing over the gate for the modest sized river beyond. Above the weir was another reservoir, this one full of water.

Leaving the water and trees behind I crossed fields to the village of Rybnica. Mapy.com showed a castle, which I climbed up to on a crude and steep path. Among the trees on the hilltop a few walls remained of a ruined Schloss. After returning to the fish ponds below I continued on my way to Wojcieszyce, which inevitably involved crossing another ridge, although one that included the sight of distant horizons over extensive ploughed brown fields.

As I had plenty of time I stopped at a restaurant for a late lunch before heading for my accommodation. My lodgings proved difficult to enter as it was locked. Eventually a lady arrived, unlocked and quickly left  I returned to the same restaurant in the evening, there was another in the opposite direction but this would require returning along a busy road without a pavement in the dark. I decided not to risk it.

Dziwiszów to Jezioro Pilchowickie: Day 164

A day walking through farmland and woods ending at a reservoir.

After having made myself breakfast I left my accommodation and followed the road as it rose steeply through the narrow strip of houses that formed the village. Rejoining the blue route I continued gaining height through grassland until I crossed the ridge and dropped into the next valley. From there it was a winding path through the forest to reach another collection of rock outcrops hidden among the trees called Okole.

One outcrop had wooden stairs and a platform so that you could admire the view over the trees. However today you could not, as the mountain was in the clouds and there was intermittent light rain. I met the Polish hikers that I had encountered yesterday, apparently the landlady at their accommodation had assured them the view was spectacular. 

Then it was downhill to the village of Chrosnica. On the way farm dogs on the loose barked at me aggressively. Inevitably other hills followed, with some confusing trails. Sometimes I was in forest other times in farmland with huge fields of ploughed, brown earth. In one area there were bundles (or fagots) of alder branches presumably cut for use in traditional fencing. A number of villages were on my route but there was a complete lack of cafes or shops. I did notice a few half timbered houses, until now they had all been built of brick and/or rendered. One village did have a church of particular interest. Although the church was modern, the original one had burnt down, it still had an ancient stone gatehouse.

As it added variety I was looking forward to walking around the reservoir of Jezioro Pilchowickie. First I spotted an iron railway bridge above the water level. The bridge was fenced off and the railway line abandoned. It ran along the side of the reservoir and was of a broader gauge than usual. There was even a train station, its windows boarded up but otherwise ready to receive trains.

Trees hid much of the reservoir, when it was visible I could see a large expanse of earth as the water level was very low. This was possibly because they were working on the dam that dated from 1903. Beside the dam the map showed a restaurant. I was expecting it to be closed due to the activity on the dam, so I was pleased to find it open. As I was camping tonight I decided on an early evening meal and ordered chicken schnitzel with potatoes and salad.

The blue route I was following ran along the top of the dam, but was closed due to the maintenance works. So instead I followed the yellow route to where it crossed the river below the dam. Then it was uphill on a green route until I could rejoin the blue route. This diversion was also helpfully marked with yellow and black tape by the Polish walking association. There were a lot of angry signs presumably telling you not to do something. I do not think I violated any of the instructions, unintelligible to me being in Polish, but was pleased to leave the area as my route continued to take me around the reservoir.

Seeing a convenient flat spot in a small valley I have pitched my tent. Although it is close to the path, and I usually like to hide among the trees, I doubt if anyone will be walking this way tonight.