E3: Herl'any to Čierna Hora: Day 109

A day following a wooded ridge.

A little after I had left Herl'any, as I was beginning the climb back up to the ridge line, I met another hiker. He was a Slovak, out for the day, aiming for a viewpoint.  As we were following the same track at similar speeds and he had a little English, we shared a few words before he turned off for his destination. After swapping our destinations and commenting on the surrounding trees I asked about the lack of water from springs. He said that there had been very little rain recently. On later checking the Internet I read that Slovakia had the driest April since records began. Despite this I did find some water at the two springs I investigated today. Many of the springs have a depression dug out to collect the water, on top of which a little house is placed to stop it being filled with leaves etc.. At the springs I visited there was water in the depression but it was still, there was no flow. I collected some but added a water purification tablets as the water was stagnant.

This morning was sunny but later it clouded over and grew dark. Rain was forecast but it only amounted to a few short showers. Apart from a few modest meadows today was all through trees. On one steep slope crossed by my track, many trees had been uprooted by a storm, the trees that the wind had pushed over crashed into others causing their trunks to break in a mass of splinters. Fortunately the fallen trees had been cleared off the track otherwise my passage would have been difficult. 

There was much climbing up hills today, at times very steeply. Along the ridge there are numerous summits, some the route bypassed but for others it was a climb up followed by the inevitable deacent, sometimes steeply. Due to the trees there were few views, the exceptions were where trees had been cut down. A few summits were marked by outcrops of rock, volcanic tuff maybe, one peak had a profusion of towers and aerials another had a simple wooden cross. As I reached higher elevations, the beech trees had smaller leaves, maybe at the higher altitudes it was cooler so growth had bern delayed. My total ascent today was well over 1200 metres, which is appreciable, so my tiredness is to be expected after walking around 27 kilometres. I would have liked to walk further to minimise the effort needed to reach Prešov tomorrow but the map suggested I had walked far enough and I was tired. Seeing a seemingly flat area I decided to pitch my tent, before the next climb up to the top of Čierna Hora. Sadly, the ground was less even than it looked with hidden stones, too big to be removed. I will just curl myself around them when I sleep tonight.

When I went out to brush my teeth the mist had gathered around the trees and a song thrush was singing me a goodnight.

E3: Dargovský Priesmyk to Herl'any: Day 108

A tiring day up into the mountains and back down again, rewarded by a pleasant stay at Herl'any, although I missed the Geyser.

I was pleased this morning that my back did not make my walking excessively painful, and my left knee was also in abeyance. Fortunate as even without these maladies I struggled with the climb and then the descent today.

First, after a short walk I reached Dargovský Priesmyk, a pass crossed by a busy road. In December 1944 and January 1945 heavy fighting took place here between the advancing Soviet Red Army and German troops, with many casualties, especially on the Soviet side. A memorial to the fallen Soviet troops lies on one side of the road. I was impressed that wreaths, albeit of artificial flowers, had been left there. Evidence that the loss of life is still remembered. A Second World War tank and self propelled gun stood on one side of the road, next to where several lorries were parked. From the state of the kiosk and what may once have been a restaurant, they had closed some time ago.

A little after the pass, the trail began rising steeply. After climbing through the forest I reached an area where the trees had been clear felled. Densely spaced beech saplings had grown from the beech mast that had dropped on the ground from the long gone trees, creating a bright green, furry cloak across the valley. Curiously, the foresters had left the occasional tree uncut, some were dead but others were still bearing leaves. Standing alone, defiant, they looked vulnerable to being felled by high winds. Higher up I entered meadows with a few more flowers, as well as speedwells and dandelions there were (according to my App) green strawberry and yellow hawkweed (and later, under the trees, delicate white sand rockcress). The lack of trees meant I could see the surrounding area.

I reached a summit called "Lazy" which I thought ironic after the long climb. Attached to a fingerpost indicating directions and timings there was a metal box. Inside was a book and pen where people had recorded their visit. I added a note then looked for any others written in English. There was only one, entered on the 4th May which said "May the Fourth be with you".

Further on, back in the trees I reached a fingerpost which had the E3 continuing in two different directions. I was not aware there were options. The trails in Slovakia had been well marked with fingerposts referencing the E3 and the colour of the waymarks painted on trees and rocks along the trail that it followed. The waymarks were three horizontal stripes: white; a colour, then white again. I had been following those with a red stripe, but the sign indicated that to reach Herl'any, my next planned destination, I needed to switch to the blue stripes. Both red and blue waymarks were signed as the E3.

The blue route descended along a path which became indistinct. Beech saplings and fallen or felled trees obscured the path. Finding which way to go was a puzzle, pushing through the vegetation more difficult still. If it were not for the occasional blue waymarks I would have given up and found another route. After entering more mature forest, where the shade from the tall trees discouraged the growth of beech, or any other saplings, the route became easier to follow.

The next challenge was a steep downhill section, strewn with moss covered boulders. Fortunately the weather was sunny and the earth dry today. If the ground had been wet, negotiating the slope would have resulted in many slips and slides with painful consequences if I had hit a rock.

At the bottom the route crossed a track but the inward section was blocked by stacked tree trunks, recently cut. Rising a few metres the pile of wood extended laterally for 30 metres or more. Finding a way around took a few attempts pushing through nettles and branches over uneven ground. Eventually I reconnected with the blue waymarks. 

All the climbing up mountains and over rocks made me excessively tired although I had only walked 15 kilometres. The timings on the fingerposts to reach places seemed optimistic to me. I was very glad to reach my accommodation. It was the only place on booking.com in the area, a modern semi-detached house. 

After showering and completing my chores, I drapped my washing over the outside chairs and walked down to the Herl'any Geyser. Here water erupts on an irregular basis from a hole drilled in the 19th century. I waited a while before checking the village website, where I discovered that the next eruption was not expected until midday tomorrow. Still it was enjoyable sitting watching families enjoying the sunshine in the surrounding park, and observing visiting cyclists out for a Sunday ride.

I have been trying to convince myself that I can walk along the E3 to the town of Prešov in two days, in theory 24 kilometres each day, with a few mountains to conquer. However as I have not yet booked accommodation there, this implies a lack of confidence.

E3: Woods after Jezero Izra to Dargovský Priesmyk: Day 107

In addition to passing through a landscape of trees I visited Slanec and its castle.

Walking was painful when I started out today, the right side of my back did not want my right leg to move. I told myself that the agony would subside as I continued to walk, and so it proved. Then my left knee became painful, so around lunchtime I put on my knee support but it was of limited benefit. 

Slanec was further from where I camped than I expected, taking me over two hours to reach the road leading into it. The E3 does not go through the village diverting to the north of it. However my plan was to visit the village centre for some supplies and refreshments and rejoin the E3 by the castle ruins which stand over the town. 

With such thoughts I entered Slanec, picking up more water from the shop. Sadly the cukráreň was closed, despite it being advertised as open, so I missed my hoped for coffee and cake. Then I climbed up to Slanec castle.

The castle dated from the 13th century and was built on a steep sided hill. Despite its defensive position it fell and was abandoned in the 17th century, only a wall and a tower remain. Rusty scaffolding encased the section of wall.

Most of my walk today was on forestry roads, either gravel or tarmac. A few sections diverted onto paths. These were often overgrown with beech saplings and nettles, or blocked by fallen trees, so eventually I chose the tarmac if the opportunity allowed. Among the chatter of the bird song, I frequently heard cuckoos  calling. At one point I disturbed a deer which ran off. Being Saturday there were many cyclists out for a ride, free wheeling down the hills, and a few people out for a walk. A serious group carrying rucksacks passed me going in the opposite direction but did not stop to say "hello" or Ahoy.

I have passed a few signs saying Ťažba Dreva, which Google Translate told me meant "Wood felling". The rest of the sign I examined today with Google said entry was prohibited. At that point I had already passed through the area. No wood felling was a taking place, although there were stacks of logs and an old machine used to drag tree trunks down to the road.

There are not as many flowers on the wayside as I might have expected, although there were areas of white flowers which my App identified as coralroot bittercress. I have passed occasional crucifixes, often mass produced affairs. One today had a candle in a red glass candle holder. I was surprised it had been lit in a fairly remote location. 

Later in my trip I had planed to collect water from springs. I had waymarked their locations on my gps and checked the ones on my route today. Sadly at the first, close to Slanec, only an occasional drip came from the pipe which collected the spring water. Later in the day I stopped at a second spring which was also failing the deliver any water. This had implications, if I could not obtain water from springs later in my trip, lengthy diversions to villages lower down the wooded mountains would be necessary. 

Tonight I am again wild camping but I have not reached the area I had planned to stop. I was too ambitious in my planning, underestimating the mileage. My various failings are also slowing me down. So tomorrow I have booked a house to stay in at a village I am passing.

E3: Aqua Maria Resort to woods after Jezero Izra: Day 106

A slow day along roads through villages and then into wooded hills.

My back was fortunately not as bad this morning as I feared, although I had difficulty getting my right leg into my trousers because of it. However, my left knee was painful and I had a headache. After completing my morning exercises and a couple of painkillers I felt considerably better. I stood on the terrace of the hotel waiting for breakfast to start at 7:30, where I admired the house martins swooping over the surroundings, periodically returning to their nests under the eaves. As soon as 7:30 arrived there was a rush for the buffet, blocking my access, but I was happy to wait, not wanting to push myself too much today.

Up until 1 pm I was principally walking on roads, mostly quiet ones among fields of rape and other crops. Four villages were on my route. I stopped at the Coop supermarkets at the first two. At each one I bought a 500 ml can of non alcoholic Radler, the equivalent of shandy in Britain. It is less stickily sweet than alternative soft drinks. I made a point of drinking them as I thought my headache this morning might have been due to not drinking enough yesterday. The downside of this was while I was sheltering from a vicious hailstorm in a picnic area at Kazimir, the third village, I was desperate for a wee. The picnic area was beside the ruin of a castle. Only one wall remained of the building which was on top of a mound. There were two heavy showers today, interspersed with cloudy skies and periods of sunshine.

A little before the final village of Byšta I unexpectedly came across a restaurant which claimed to be open. On entering there were a few people around, two of which were engaged in fitting a new green baize to the snooker table, another two were busy preparing a hamper of some kind. Nobody was eating and I felt rather self conscious, however on asking I was told they were doing a limited food offering and I ordered a kebab (it was that or a pizza). This came with chips and salad, a larger meal than I was anticipating, however I am wild camping tonight so it will save dipping into my food supplies too much.

After Byšta my route took me into wooded hills, many oak and beech. There were many uphill and downhill sections as I crossed small valleys along the side of a ridge. I was serenaded by numerous birds, mostly unseen and saw a few fire salamanders.

Around 4 pm I reached a lake in the hills, surronded by trees, called Jezero Izra. A pretty spot with a few people enjoying its peace, and I sat a while looking at the reflections. Sadly the café that once existed was now a dilapidated building, the roof caved in and partly burnt.

After the lake the trail became difficult. Trees spread across it, some had been cut down, others had just fallen bringing others down with them. Climbing over or around the trees caused me considerable delay.

At around 6 pm I decided it was time to find a spot to camp. Being on the side of a ridge flat spots were difficult to find and there were faded "no camping" signs. I picked a spot away from the main track on a patch of ground only slightly sloping. The pegs did not hold too well in last year's beech leaves however there is little wind to disturb them so I am hoping for a quiet night.

E3: Slovenské Nové Mesto to Aqua Maria Resort: Day 105

A painful start to a varied day which included catching the train from Košice to Slovenské Nové Mesto and then walking to the Aqua Maria Resort. 

My back ache seemed worse this morning and my exercises failed to free it up. The walk to the railway station was a little painful. At the station, by the time I had worked out which train to catch, buy a ticket and identify platform it ran from, the train had left. Not that I was too upset as it gave me time before the next train to visit a cukráreň for a latte and an excellent cake (a roulade filled with cream and berry compote). I was also able to visit the Catholic Cathedral. Sitting in a pew I prayed that things would go well at home and that my back would fix itself. Then I felt guilty for asking God for things for myself, is that sinful? The thought was prompted by the line of people queuing by the confession box. Tourists wandered around taking photos of the gilded altars while local people bowed and muttered prays.

The train was a local one stopping at every station. Passing Slanec I glimpsed the castle ruins I would walk by in a few days time. Stepping down from the train onto the low, apology for a platform at Nové Mesto was especially difficult as my back problems restricted my leg movements. An elderly lady descending from the carraige in front of mine was having a similar issue.

Nové Mesto is just over the border from the larger Hungarian town of Sátoraljaújhely. In 1918 the old Austro-Hungarian Empire was divided up and the boundary of the new country, Czechoslovakia, cut the railway station off from the town it served.

Limping out of Nové Mesto I followed quiet, single lane roads around fields of yellow rape and wheat. The roads were remarkably straight before making right angles turns. As my route gained a little height I passed lines of vines stretching up the hillside, part of the Slovak Tokaj wine region. I lunched beside the vines on a burek bought in Košice, a spiral of greasy pastry stuffed with, in my case, cheese. Nightingales sang loudly from roadside trees.

Two villages followed, Malá Tŕňa and Vel'ká Tŕňa (little and big Tŕňa) with detached, largely single storey houses, many with barking dogs. At the first village there were tree branches decorated with streamers attached to gate posts. Apparently they are the local version of the maypole, called máj in Slovakia. They celebrate the arrival of spring, youth and love.

I overtook an elderly man who said something I could not understand but may have been advising that I could catch a bus. I mimed walking movements with my hands. After the second village I left the road and followed a track over wooded hills. Many birds serenaded me, too many different types for my App to identify.

After rising up and down the track deposited me by the Aqua Maria Resort and my bed for the night. Dinner was stewed beef wrapped in a pancake with which I ordered a side order of grilled vegetables to get my five a day.

E3: Luton Airport to Košice: Day 104

A day of travelling, returning to the Slovak city of Košice.

As I woke up in a budget hotels at Luton Airport my body raised objections to crossing the room, much less my planned weeks of walking. Persistent pain in my lower right back had been hovering around for the last two weeks; my arthritic left knee was no better than usual, and I was a few kilograms above my normal weight and feeling fat. I had not spoken of my ailments with my wife or anyone else for fear they might try and persuade me to delay my long planned trip. Instead I convinced myself that it would all sort itself out after a few weeks of hiking, certainly, sitting on trains and buses yesterday did not help. If I sucked my tummy in I still looked OK in the bedroom mirror with a slight sign of muscles below my ribs, although maybe a four pack instead of a full six pack.

My mood was further dulled as my expectations of this trip were lower than on previous treks. Based on various blogs and vlogs I expected much walking through woodland, rain trickling down my neck, and poor visibility obscuring any distant vistas. However, as I walked unevenly down to breakfast with my stiff and painful back, I mused that things often turn out differently to what you expect. As it was part of the E3, and my trek from the Black Sea to the Atlantic I was committed to walking it.

Luton Airport was much the same except for visibly armed police wandering around, stubby, semi automatic rifles at the ready, maybe because of the recently increased level of terrorist threat. A police dog handler led a small spaniel around who vigorously wagged its tail as it sniffed people's bags.

Once in departures I chose a latte from at a self service screen at a café, an extensive range of strange and unusual drinks were listed such as blueberry matcha and turmeric chai latte. Mine just had coffee and (cows') milk.

A few hours later, after flying over miles of brilliant white cloud, I descended towards Košice airport. Once below the clouds I looked down on ridges and valleys of intelocking spurs clothed with trees. I had read that forests cover 44% of Slovakia and suspected I would pass quite a few trees on my route. Košice came in sight, seemly a mass of apartment blocks, stood up like cream dominos across the city. However I knew from my previous visit that it had an attractive old centre.

On landing I was introduced to the EES, the system that will record when I enter and leave the Schengen area. This involved being photographed and having the finger prints of my right hand taken.

With the help of Google Translate I managed to acquire a bus ticket from the machine in front of the airport, before boarding the number 23 bus which conveniently arrived a few minutes later. I copied the other passengers validating their tickets at the device by the bus's door, then we were off into town.

My hotel looked dusty on the outside but was clean on the inside with a friendly, English speaking receptionist. After settling in I visited a supermarket in the Avpark mall to get supplies and then went to a restaurant recommended by the receptionist. Portions could have been bigger, I should have ordered the soup as well as the main course of pig's cheeks and mashed potatoes but it did leave room for dessert (crêpe with strawberries,  mascapone, almonds and cream). 

The central, old part of Košice is lovely. I would have looked inside the cathedral  but a couple of men hanging around outside made me suspicious so I merely enjoyed the intricate masonary and coloured roof tiles on the outside. The fountains I had seen last time were dancing to a popular song. For a while I sat and watched the pulsating drops of water, coloured red and orange by the lighting before heading back to my bed.

E3 in Hungary: Some Comments.

The E3 European Long Distance Path follows the Alfoldi Kektura in Hungary (as does the E4). This National Trail, also known as the Great Plains Blue Route, is well waymarked with blue and white stripes, and frequent finger posts. The farm and forest tracks it follows are generally good but can be overgrown and muddy. At the edge of the Hungary's Great Plain it consists of flat arable farmland, plus a large amount of woodland. The woodland, predominantly of black poplar, white poplar and locust trees, is on sandy soils where the ground rises and falls over what may once have been low sand dunes. Appart from the circuitous route south of Debrecen the Kektura visits a couple of villages each day, where there are usually small shops. Although there are few natural sources of water, villages have blue painted "taps" where you can obtain drinking water. However, many of these have now been disabled, maybe so the local municipalities can avoid paying water companies for the water. Kisvarda,  Nyírbátor and a few other villages have accommodation. I wild camped a number of nights however this could be avoided using buses and trains to commute each day to some larger centre, in particular Debrecen. Hungary's public transport systems is extensive and reliable. Bus and train times and options can be found on Google maps, Rome to Rio and similar platforms. Debrecen's city centre in particular is worth a visit. 

My blog of my walk on the E3 from the Black sea starts here.

My blog of this trip starts here.

My blog of this trip through Hungary starts here.

One of the very few signs on the Kektura referencing the E3 and E4 paths.