Suchdol nad Odrou to Fulnek: Day 141

A busy train trip from Krakow to Suchdol nad Odrou followed by a walk through a landscape rather greener than the one I left behind in England. 

Crowds of people were trying to enter the Leo Express train. Tickets were allocated to reserved seats. Unfortunately people heading in one direction down the narrow carraige aisles were obstrucing people heading in the other direction, as they all struggled to reach their allocated seats. The stalemate was compounded by people blocking the aisle as they tried to force their bulky bags onto the inadequate and overcrowded luggage racks above the seats. Eventually the chaos settled into a sort of jumbled order on the busy train and I looked out the window from seat 3/91 at the suburbs of Krakow as they segued into the surrounding farmland. 

The name Leo Express was misleading as the train proceeded over Poland at an exceedingly slow pace, dropping to a crawl as it approached level crossings, possibly as they were not working. We speeded up in Czechia, and I had to hurry off when the train stopped briefly at Suchnol nad Odrou before continuing to Prague. My confusion over the lack of a raised platform caused me some hesitation. 

The station offered the opportunity for a lunchtime snack before I started my walk. I dined on an open sandwich of ham and "Russian egg" served with a raspberry lemonade (available on draft beside the beers). Suitably replete I walked through the village of Suchdol nad Odrou, a ribbon development beside the roads each side of a stream. It boasted two churches, one with a bulbous spire and the other with a neogothic tower. 

Everything was green, a contrast to the straw coloured grass, burnt brittle by the sun and starved of rain, in the fields I left behind in England. Apples, rosehips and the berries of hawthorn added colour to the wayside. Apart from Suchnol  and the village of Kletne I walked through woods, grassland and fields where something harvested a long time ago left lines of pale stalks standing.

A short walk today of 12 kilometres with only a modest amount of ascent over low tree-covered hills. At times, looking back, I could see the higher Carpathian Mountains that I had walked down earlier in the year.

I discovered from an information board that I was also on part of the "Via Exulantis" or the "Steps of the Exiles". The exiles were Evangelical Christians from Northen Moravia, the region I was in. To escape persecution in the 18th century 550 of these Protestants fled north west to found a settlement at Helmhut and contribute to the development of the Moravian church around the world. The trail followed their path.

Coming over a ridge approaching Fulnek I was confronted by Fulnek Castle, a large, pale yellow, 16th century rennaisance building. A cement tank stood outside, maybe for renovation or conversion of the closed building. 

Down the hill I found the 18th century Holy Trinity Church. Its inside was in the Baroque style with numerous domes, angels painted on the ceilings, and side chapels with white statues and extensive gilding.

This large church looked down on a square surrounded by attractive pastel coloured buildings. Young people sat on benches and a lady was sitting at a stall hoping to sell fruit and vegetables.

At my bed & breakfast I took off my knee brace, removed the plaster covering the blister it had caused the previous week and examined the wound. A little moist but it sermed no worse, although tomorrow will be a bigger test at 22 kilometres. 

For dinner I ate at a Vietnamese Restaurant as it was the only place I could find where I could sit down to a meal on a Tuesday night. After, having read in a guidebook about the importance of Czech pubs, I visited a "Hospoda" for research purposes (and a beer). There was a bit of confusion as to which beer I wanted, as I was not familiar with any of them I could not really care, which only added confusion. However one of the freedoms that a long walk like this gives you is that no matter how stupid they think you are, you are unlikely to ever meet them again!

Resuming my walk on the E3: Day 140

Today I returned to Krakow in Poland complete with my new knee brace.

During my last trek along the E3 in the Carpathian Mountains, I suffered from pain in my left knee. A long standing problem caused by an injury and the subsequent arthoscopy (knee operation) many years ago. The arthroscopy was a success, in that I had no problems for next nine years, but in 2021, I had to suspend my walk from Land's End to John o'Groats due to my knee. Finding that I had reduced joint space on the inside of my knee, the result of the earlier operation, I was given a steroid injection. This anti-inflamatory injection, together with exercises recommended by a physiotherapist, a compression sleeve and rest days on my walks, allowed me to cover many miles on foot over the next five years, including a 2,800 mile walk from Ireland to the South of France.

Experiencing an increase in the amount of pain on my last trip I returned to the consultant who treated me earlier. This time the X-ray showed a significant loss of joint space on the inside of my leg, too much for another steroid injection to be effective. Given two options, a half knee replacement or an "unloader" brace, I decided on the latter.

X-ray of knee.

My brace was fitted by the National Bracing Centre at Pontyclun. My Össur Unloader Brace is designed to take the weight off the inside of my knee where the joint space is reduced. In addition it helps keep the movement of my knee in the same plane, avoiding it being pushed sideways due to uneven, rocky ground or stumbles. Such movement is often the cause of sharp pain.

My new brace.

Over several longer walks of up to 20 miles I found the brace effective in supporting my knee without any negative effects, although a fellow walker spotted a slight "limp". Unfortunately, six days before my departure to resume my progress along the E3, following a long walk, I discovered a pus filled blister on my calf, which was unexpected as I had felt no pain. To manage this worrying development I stopped using the brace for a few days and the raised area has now settled to a red scab. 

To travel to Krakow I decided to wear my brace today. If the airline lost my rucksack I did not want to loose my brace as well, it being the most expensive item I am taking. To prevent the resurrection of the remains of my blister I have covered it with a large plaster. Many more similar dressings are packed into my already  bulging rucksack.

A lot of people know of my planned walk of over 400 miles through the Sudeten mountains in Czechia and Poland. I will be disappointed if I have to return early because I cannot tolerate my brace. It would seem like failure.

My brace set off warnings as I went through airport security and had to be swabbed. Fortunately I could roll up my trousers far enough for the person on security to reach it. Departure of my flight from Gatwick to Krakow was two hours late in the gathering dusk, which gave me a view of lines of brilliantly coloured lights as the plane turned onto the runway. Later, by shielding my eyes from the onboard lights I could see through the window many clusters of lights, collections of bright pinpricks in black surroundings marking the towns and cities we were flying over. My legs were unsettled as they wanted to start walking after sitting for so long on trains and in the airport. On arrival, with a little help, I managed to extract a ticket for the train from the machine on the railway"s platform. Around 1 am I was in a bed and soon asleep. 

E3 in Western Slovakia: Some Comments

The E3 in Western Slovakia follows a series of ridges with many days involving total ascents of over a thousand metres. For this reason I found this part of the E3 strenuous as the ridge has many summits to climb up and down. Although much of the trail is through conifer forest, there are also long sections above the tree line, which in good weather give excellent views to the north and south. However good weather cannot be relied upon.

There are towns and villages on the route with accommodation, shops and restaurants namely Trstena, Zazriva, Strecno, Rajec, Bytca and Makov. Bytca and Strecno also have castles! However, on some sections it is necessary to use a mountain hut or wild camp.

Waymarking is generally good with signs referencing the E3 with timings to the next destination and stripes painted on trees in white and a colour, however there are a few sections where waymarks and signs dissappear so a GPS, phone App or map is needed. Trails are generally good, but forest tracks can be muddy and deeply rutted when there is recent forestry activity. Fallen trees also form obstructions. Trails often head straight up and down steep slopes and when wet can be exceedingly slippery.

The start of my walk through Wesern Slovakia is here.

The start of my blog on the E3 is here.

Kraków and home: Day 140 & 141

A day joining the multitudes seeing the sights of Krakow, followed next day by the trip home.

St Mary's Basilica at night.

I woke to the trumpeter sounding the hour from the top of St Mary's Basilica, a tradition going back to the 13th century when the Tartars attacked the city. This I learnt on a walking tour I joined which visited the main sites of the old town. We started in the main square by St Mary's in which the Cloth Hall stands. Here they once traded textiles, now the stalls sell gifts for tourists. Later we visited the University, or at least the part where it was first housed. Copernicus and Pope John Paul II studied at this university, but Marie Curie's application was rejected as she was a women (the Sorbonne was more enlightened). After climbing Wawel Hill we viewed the Cathedral, the adjacent castle and finally looked for dragons! According to folklore a dragon had to be killed in order to build a village on the hill. Everywhere was crowded with tourists and school parties. English was widely spoken.

Inside Wawel Castle.

Young people in traditional costumes putting on a street performance.

I sat for a while in St Mary's, admiring the golden altar and star studded ceiling. The many crucifixes I had been seeing reminded me of the Christian teaching that Jesus died so that our sins might be forgiven. I wondered what my sins were. My notion of God was vague but I have not killed anyone or stolen anything. I have not lusted after my neighbour's wife or their ass, and I felt I had honoured my parents, especially as my mother was dying. Maybe my sins were those of omission, such as ignoring beggars on the street (although giving money to a charity for the homeless).

Inside St Mary's Basilica.

Leaving such thoughts behind I joined a food tour (was that the sin of gluttony revealing itself, I was already two cakes into the day)? The amiable guide fed myself and several Americans who were on Grand Tours of Europe. There was cheese, sausage, pierogies, sour soup, potato pancakes, apple pancakes and a few other things. To drink there were small shots of quality vodka and a glass of beer. Suitably stuffed I spent my last night in Poland. 

Next morning I caught an early train to the airport, slightly concerned as it was from platform 4, whereas platform 3 had "airport" symbols. At the airport there was a long, slow queue while the border police took our finger prints and photographed us under the new European Entry/Exit System. As I had both taken when I arrived in Slovakia I wondered why the process was not quicker, or automated the second time. Finally I was landing at Gatwick, just missing an earlier train home.

E3: Hodslavice to Suchdol nad Odrou: Day 139

On my last of walking on this trip it rained but there was less climbing. Reaching Suchdol nad Odrou I caught a train to Krakow. 

Just like last night, I made scrambled eggs on toast and coffee for a "proper" breakfast. That meant washing up as well as packing before I rejoined the E3. When heading for my appartment last night I missed a short section of the E3 that followed a road behind the houses of the village. On that road I could see two spires, like many in the area they were elaborate decorative features. I walked back to the first, which housed a bell and was attached to a small building by a cemetery. Later I passed a shrine, sat in a village with an equally decorative and pointy spire.

Shrine with an ornate spire typical of the area.

Today's walk was a contrast to my hikes over the previous weeks. Instead of high forested ridges there were lower hills and more villages, areas of trees but also fields of hay.

The quiet road I followed.

Not all was easy walking. The path down through trees from the highest hill, Svinec, was steep, and continuing rain had made the earth slippery. My poles were essential to gain a grip as I progressed very slowly down the hill, fearing that if I slipped awkwardly my left knee could be very painful. The summit of the hill had not been rewarding as it extended into the clouds creating "white out" conditions. However among the long grass that covered the hilltop there were some interesting wild flowers: pink sainfoin, blue broadleaf speedwell and cream pincushion flower according to my App. When visibility was a little better I looked down on Novy Jicin, a sizeable town that the E3 bypasses.

View down to Novy Jicin.

Passing a hotel and restaurant I stopped for a coffee, and in a later village picked up a few pastries from the Coop for lunch.  The final part of the walk was through flat fields of grass rimmed with trees, a huge contrast to the mountains I had been climbing.

Thanks to an early start I arrived at the railway station at Suchdol nad Odrou with more than two hours before my intended train departed, one which would have taken me direct to Krakow. The lady at the ticket office suggested an alternative routing involving a change at Bohumin that would get me to Krakow much earlier. I bought the ticket but was nervous about catching the right trains. My train to Krakow was waiting when I arrived at Bohumin. It had an old style carraige arrangement, with six seater compartments. My reservation was in one that was almost full with people and all their luggage so I sat in an empty carraige for a while. However that soon filled up with people who had reservations for the carraige so I returned to where my allocated seat was actually located.

Krakow station was rather overwhelming. Lots of people marching with conviction criss-crossing the concourses, and I heard English being spoken for the first time in five weeks. Krakow is an international tourist destination so it was not surprising. Despite difficulties navigating a large shopping mall I exited at the right place thanks to signs directing me to the Old Town. Having found my hotel and showered I toured the streets looking for a Polish restaurant (why come to Poland and eat Italian food?). I ended at a rather posh one where they tell you about your glass of wine, justifying the cost as a celebration for finishing my walk and not letting my knee stop me. I ended at a bar, deep in a cellar, where a guy murdered popular songs on an electric keyboard. 

E3: Pustevny to Hodslavice: Day 138

A tiring day, but the rain held off and there were some good views.

Road out of Pustevny.

After going to bed last night I tossed around trying to find a position in which my left knee was not painful. Eventually I gave up and took a couple of painkillers, which gave me some sleep. Another early start as I had some 30 kilometres to walk and wanted to make sure I arrived at a reasonable time. The floor creaked in my bedroom as I moved around eating my breakfast and packing. I hope I did not disturb those sleeping next door. The breakfast bag which the hotel gave me yesterday so I could start early was huge and served me for later meals as well. The first part of the walk over the Radegast and Radhošt summits was excellent. There was a statue of Radegast, the ancient mountain god, and another of statue of Saints Cyril and Methodius, the pair who invented Cyrillic characters.

Saints Cyril and Methodius.

Gaps in the trees allowed for good views today. Towns and villages could be seen in the valleys each side of the ridge I was following. Beyond these to the south there were lines of mountains, but to the north I could see plains in the far distance. There were other hikers about, of both sexes, despite it being a week day. They were all faster than me, despite some being a little tubby.

View to the north.

Sadly, I had to descend to the Pindula Pass, where a road cuts across the mountains. My knee did not appreciate the descent and complained much of the day. Once I reached the road there was the inevitable climb up to the next part of the ridge. It was again a day where the route was trying to take me over most (although not all) of the summits on the ridge. All the ups and downs tires me and annoys my knee. On the plus side there were not many of the really steep ascents and descents that affected the first part of my trip. However I took a few more rests than was usual for me munching through the large tomatoes in my breakfast bag.

As the afternoon matured I descended to Hostasovice station, where I stopped for a cold drink. A little more struggle and I was in Hodslavice. As my accommodation was at the far end of town I had planned to eat at one of the two "restaurants" marked on my map on the way. Sadly no food was available after 3:00 pm. By then it was after 5:00pm and the Coop was closed as well. I was welcomed at the appartment I had booked by the owner. He was evidentally familiar with the lack of food offerings in the town and, without me asking, offered eggs, bread, butter and salt. Consequently it was scrambled eggs on toast for tea with a large, messy orange from my breakfast bag. I have spent some time booking activities for the next few days including my flight home from Krakow. However unless I catch the 15:34 train from Suchdol Nad Odrou tomorrow I will loose money on cancellations, and it is a 6 hour walk away.

E3: Makov to Pustevny: Day 137

The major event of today was reaching Czechia, the Czech Republic.

I again made an early start as I was expecting a long day. First I had to climb out of the steep sided, forested valley in which the village of Makov lined a busy road. Leaving the noise of the traffic behind, passing a few houses perched on the hillside, I climbed through the woods until I reached a summit. It was an area where trees had been cut down so I could see the track winding ahead of me to the next stand of mature trees. Some of the trees today, whether beech or conifers were extremely tall.

Tall beech trees beside the path.

My first milestone was reaching a trail heading west, where I switched from the red waymarked trail to a blue one, only to revert to a red track after a few kilometres. Beside me, at regular intervals, I noticed the white boundary stones with red tops that I had seen on the Polish border earlier on my trip. This time they marked the border between Slovakia (the "S" on one side of the stone) and Czechia (marked with a "C"). Following the border by occasional houses led me to the Bumbalka Pass and a major road. As I approached I could hear the whine of lorries straining as they were driven up to the Pass, where they left one country and arrived at the next without stopping. I had hoped for some refreshments but nothing was open. A stall might open on another day, but the  "Motorest" looked unlikely to open ever again. A backpacker, hitching a lift, exchanged a few pleasantries with me before running after a car that stopped for him.

The red route continued uphill along the border under the trees until it decided to commit itself to Czechia. I passed a closed looking hotel with a short ski tow before my route returned me to the road (on a yellow trail), crossing it I started on the ridge (on a red trail) which I would follow for the rest of the day. After walking uphill for a while I began the the usual trek up and down hills among conifers in various stages of maturity. At one point I heard the revving of a chainsaw and the warm, sweet smell of freshly-cut resinous wood. After passing warning signs I deviated into the surrounding forest, giving a man trimming branches off felled trees a wide berth.

Looking down to villages in the valley.

Reaching Martiňák where there is a "wellness" hotel, I stopped at the attached restaurant and bought a hot dog for my lunch. Perhaps my small dinner last night made me hungrier than usual as I was then drawn to a "sweet thing". I ordered a blueberry dumpling. The large fluffy white dumpling contained a blueberry compôt which also formed a purple, blue pool in which the dumpling proudly sat. During the morning my left knee had been giving me pain and refused to bend properly, causing me to stumble on rocks and tree roots. After lunch however it seemed much better which surprised me, as normally stoping for a while causes it to stiffen. Maybe the ibuprofen I had taken three hours earlier was taking effect or else it just liked blueberry dumplings!

Leaving Martiňák I started along a single track road in the direction indicated by a signpost. After a while I checked my GPS and found I was not on the route I had loaded for the E3 from somewhere on the internet. I climbed up through trees to what I thought was the correct route. This was marked with green waymarks. Checking the mapy.com App on my phone I found this was incorrect, the E3 should here be following red waymarks, my gpx track was wrong! So I had to retrace my steps to the single track road. This was an excellent route, at least for my knee, as the road was surfaced with smooth tarmac and contoured the ridge rather than attempting all of its summits. There were no cars, only cyclists freewheeling down the shallow gradient that I was progressing up. As I approached Pustevney, the E3 branched off up a side path, gaining height rapidly to deliver me to my hotel.

The old hotel was occupied by large numbers of excited school children, I had seen some of them out in the woods on my way. Pustevney is a curious place. Created by the Radhošt Mountain Society between 1891 and 1926, there were a few striking buildings with many decorative features in wood and paint. This evening there are many people about. Backpackers, cyclists, groups of men drinking beer, children and parents. Pustevney is, as was intended, a place for tourists. 

An old building at Pustevny.