Dziwiszów to Jezioro Pilchowickie: Day 164

A day walking through farmland and woods ending at a reservoir.

After having made myself breakfast I left my accommodation and followed the road as it rose steeply through the narrow strip of houses that formed the village. Rejoining the blue route I continued gaining height through grassland until I crossed the ridge and dropped into the next valley. From there it was a winding path through the forest to reach another collection of rock outcrops hidden among the trees called Okole.

One outcrop had wooden stairs and a platform so that you could admire the view over the trees. However today you could not, as the mountain was in the clouds and there was intermittent light rain. I met the Polish hikers that I had encountered yesterday, apparently the landlady at their accommodation had assured them the view was spectacular. 

Then it was downhill to the village of Chrosnica. On the way farm dogs on the loose barked at me aggressively. Inevitably other hills followed, with some confusing trails. Sometimes I was in forest other times in farmland with huge fields of ploughed, brown earth. In one area there were bundles (or fagots) of alder branches presumably cut for use in traditional fencing. I passed through a number of villages but with a complete lack of cafes or shops. One village did have a church of particular interest. Although the church was modern, the original one had burnt down, it still had an ancient stone gatehouse.

As it added variety I was looking forward to walking around the reservoir of Jezioro Pilchowickie. First I spotted an iron railway bridge above the water level. The bridge was fenced off and the railway line abandoned. It ran along the side of the reservoir and was of a broader gauge than usual. There was even a train station, its windows boarded up but otherwise ready to receive trains.

Trees hid much of the reservoir, when it was visible I could see a large expanse of earth as the water level was very low. This was possibly because they were working on the dam that dated from 1903. Beside the dam the map showed a restaurant. I was expecting it to be closed due to the activity on the dam, so I was pleased to find it open. As I was camping tonight I decided on an early evening meal and ordered chicken schnitzel with potatoes and salad.

The blue route I was following ran along the top of the dam, but was closed due to the maintenance works. So instead I followed the yellow route to where it crossed the river below the dam. Then it was uphill on a green route until I could rejoin the blue route. This diversion was also helpfully marked with yellow and black tape by the Polish walking association. There were a lot of angry signs presumably telling you not to do something. I do not think I violated any of the instructions, unintelligible to me being in Polish, but was pleased to leave the area as my route continued to take me around the reservoir.

Seeing a convenient flat spot in a small valley I have pitched my tent. Although it is close to the path, and I usually like to hide among the trees, I doubt if anyone will be walking this way tonight.

Shronisko PTTK Szwajcarka to Dziwiszów: Day 163

Today there were fields of grass as well as woods, I walked with two Polish hikers for the last kilometre or so.

Overnight much rain fell, battering my tent but fortunately unable to get in. Breakfast was scrambled egg with tomato, cucumber, cheese and ham in the cosy dining area of the mountain hut. I later learnt from a fellow hiker that Szwajcarka, the name of the hut, meant a Swiss woman. There must a reason somewhere. Near the hut is a small building with a picture of Wanda Rutkiewicz painted on. A Polish mountain climber who practiced in the area, she was the first woman to climb K2 and the first European woman to climb Everest.

After leaving the hut and trees of the mountain there was easy walking through the villages of Trzcińsko and Radomierz. The latter had an observation tower, which looked like it was once part of a churvh, but it was only open Saturday. All the villages today were ribbon developments, scattered houses stretched in a corridor around a road. After Radomierz the trail climbed into low hills.

Beside the trail today were large fields of grass, interspersed with copses and larger areas of trees; oak, birch and conifers. I saw one herd of cows today but generally the fields are empty except for maybe a few round bales of hay. A large tractor pulling a huge trailer loaded with these bales passed, I stepped off the road to make room for him.

Just beyond the top of Komano there was art piece by (according to Mapy.com) Magdalena Osak entitled "Into The Blue", or Droga w Błękit. It feature old shoes on a piece of painted wood. A little later there were a series of four carvings which included Mary and Jesus. This put religious themes in my mind, I recalled fragments of hymns, songs and psalms. The red berries of hawthorns and rosehips reminded me of Jesus's blood being spilt in Catholic iconography, and also that the year was moving towards its end, only to be reborn again next spring.

I came across a ruined farmhouse. Trees were growing within its walls and around them. Nature reclaiming it's own. That it was once a farmhouse was confirmed by two Polish hikers I met. One at least had good English. He also confirmed that the people were picking wild mushrooms in the forest and not some other type of fungi, better that artificially cultivated mushrooms he thought. He said it was a tradition going back to communist times when food could be limited. Pointing out the city of Jelenia Góra in the far distance to the south, with a tall chimney at its centre, he said the name meant "Deer Mountain", but that when the area was part of Germany it was called Hirschberg (which also means "Deer Mountain").

I left them at the top of the village of Dziwiszów where I had booked accommodation, they had arranged to stay at a place a little farther on. When I knocked at the Agroturystyka, the place I had booked, the elderly lady did not seem to be expecting me. Leaving me she returned a few moments later with a man and then showed me to my room. There is a kitchen shared with other guests but I seem to be the only one staying here tonight. At the local shop I bought a jar of meatballs in tomato sauce plus some extras and materials for breakfast. I heated the meatballs at length in a pan to make sure they were cooked, which meant that it was several minutes before they were cool enough to eat.

Kamienna Góra to Shronisko PTTK Szwajcarka: Day 162

Today there were several large outcrops of granite hiding in the forest.

On my way out of Kamienna Góra I walked along John Paul II street. The former pope is widely revered here, there was a small shrine with his photo. At the edge of town I was greeted by the a cloud of red hawthorn berries, the leaves had gone but the berries remained to brighten a dull day.

My walk to the first vilage of Pisarzowice was fast and easy over grassland. Diverting through the village I found a shop open and despite a good breakfast I bought an ice cream and a slab of cheesecake for lunch. Although there wss grassland at first, for most of my day the route was through forest, going up and down hills. In my memory the walk was a bit of a blur as one hill of conifers looked much like another with occasional beech, birch and rowan, the latter scattering its red berries on the trail. At times I was on good gravel roads but at others I was navigating steep trails moving from rock to rock, tree root to tree root. On one such descent I slipped on the gravelly substrate, while it was a collapae in slow motion, I have bruised my arm and backside. If only I had been using my trekking poles I might have avoided it, but I was being lazy and had not taken them from my backpack.

Being Sunday people were out walking, a few looking for mushrooms, most were heading up to the large granite outcrops that stood among the trees. Similar to the "tors" on Dartmoor, except they were surrounded by tall trees and stunted birch trees grew from crevices and flatter areas of the outcrops. Being partially hidden by the forest they rather lost their dramatic effect. Neverthless they atttacted couples and families out for Sunday hike, and also a few rock climbers who I spotted from the helmuts on their backpacks. Ocasional covered picnic tables made suitable lunch spots. I found a picnic table of my own for lunch with a panoramic view.

To lead me to a selection of these outcrops the blue route was rather circuitous, adding kilometres to my day but eventually delivering me to a spot a short distance from Shronisko PTTK Szwajcarka. It was close to yet more granite outcrops and I visited the nearest where I climbed onto a fenced area and admired the view. Thankfully the warden of this mountain hut spoke English so I was able to say I wanted to camp here and latter his assistant took my order for dinner (bigos, a stew with chorizo in, and pierogis with blueberries inside). In the dining room with me were a group of ladies, maybe friends meeting here to catch up on the latest news. At times the conversation was conducted in hushed tones. I almost told them there was no need to speak quietly as I had no idea what they were saying in Polish. Later a couple with a dog arrived, the dog barking at me without any cause. I left for my tent as it began to rain.

Szczawno Zdrój to Kamienna Góra: Day 161

Steep climbs this morning, then by a pithead this afternoon.

The hotel was busy rearranging tables for an "event" this morning, the event manager shook my hand. Perhaps he thought I was the client, whereas I was trying to get breakfast. I managed to get scrambled eggs and coffee while a large group sat down nearby. They looked like three generations of the same family complete with bearded uncles. Maybe at the hotel for a wedding?

Leaving behind the flower bordered roads and fountains of Szczawno Zdrój I climbed through its suburbs into wooded hills. I knew there were two round, steep hills rising above the surroundings whose summits the E3 crossed. The first was the highest and after a bit of wandering around the blue route took it "head on", rising straight up through the trees. Loose stones and dirt slipped beneath my dusty feet, if it has been wet and muddy it would have been near impossible. Tree roots substituted for steps in places, but mainly it was hard work. Sweat dripped down my face and I had to keep mopping my brow with my now damp handkerchief to avoid sweat hurting my eyes.

Finally, I reached a clearing at the top. Numerous people were there having arrived by an easier track. There was an enormous cross made of metal bars which complimented crosses of a more tyical size with religious writings on, lower down the hill. More interesting was an old stone tower which had been converted into a tourist feature. Inside there were vending machines where I bought a Mars Bar and Coke. I smiled as it reminded me of my working days when a Mars Bar and Coke would be offered as an incentive to get a job finished. Possibly there was a way to reach the top of the tower, among the various aerials and dishes, but I felt I had climbed far enough.

The next mountain was slightly lower but also hard work with no reward at the summit, making me wonder what my incentive was for climbing it. The trees meant there was no panorama to admire.

After the two mountains I descended to Gorce. An old coal mining town, I knew that the pithead, the tower with the winding wheel to lift men and coal out of the mine, had been preserved at a museum. I diverted to see it but unfortunately the museum was closed. I had hoped to learn more of Silesia"s history as a coal mining area, however I was not unduly upset as I was short of time having been delayed by the steep climbs.

Another hill, more gentle this time took me to Czerny Bór, a large village where I bought an ice cream. Then it was gently undulating land by housing, through conifer forest and finally beside large brown fields, ploughed and tilled for seeding.

Kamienna Góra has the typical central cobbled square with mounds of flowers but most of the town.has a slightly depressed feel. I dinned at a restaurant which did not look too attractive outside in its dark side street but was bright and busy inside with local couples and families. Food was more than adequate.

Glinno to Szczawno Zdrój: Day 160

A castle, an unusual observation tower, an attractive spa town and the inevitable wooded hills today.

I left my camping spot in the woods as the sun was rising over the far hills, a jet high up was marking the blue sky with a white streak. Startled by my approach, a group of deer rushed across my path as I crossed grassland, I had also seen a deer last night but those were all my sightings this trip so far. A lady was tending to her cattle in fields near the village of Glinno, in which a few friendly dogs took an interest in me and my rucksack as I put new batteriesin my GPS. Then it was up and over a mountain through the woods to Grodno Castle. An old medieval castle which had a major make over with Rennaisance additions in the 16th century. The display of implements for torture made me worry about people's ability to inflict unbearable pain on others.

After looking around and climbing the tower, the attached coffee shop was still not open, so I descended to the village of Zagórze Śląskie. No cafe open there either and the shop was closed.

As I walked through the woodlands there were a few people out picking fungi that looked too large and misshapen to be mushrooms. However, with the numbers of those out searching for them anong the trees, maybe they are a particular variety of mushroom.

After briefly crossing another village I continued over a series of summits. Those creating the route of the E3 or the blue route it followed, wanted to make sure I climbed to all the high points of this mountain, which involved several ascents and descents, often steep. If there had been views it might have been worth it but all was obscured by trees. There was better news when I reached the following valley. This was an urban area, which gave the impression of being poor and neglected, I spotted two people collecting plastic bottles. However it did have a bakery where I acquired a large latte and a doughnut. 

The next mountain had an observation tower at the summit. Unusual as instead of stairs it had a spiral ramp that you walked up. I suppose it was to make it easier for disabled people although coming down in a wheelchair or mobility scooter would require good brakes. A group of less able people had been brought to the tower in what looked like a lengthened golf buggy. I wondered how many of them had made it to the up the tower. On top the steel structure swayed slightly in the wind as I looked over the tree tops at the wooded hills I had crossed and towns in the surrounding valleys. Some looked industrial with tall chimneys. Silesia was once an industrial area with coal mines so an industrial aspect was to be expected. At the base of the tower there was a stamp and inkpad so you could record your visit to the tower. I have seen similar stamps at other towers.

Tonight I am staying at an old spa town, developed for those seeking health benefits a century or so ago. Today, flowers in beds and baskets beside cobbled streets and promenades make for an attractive resort. They even had a promenade under cover for when it rained. I visited the pump room where I paid a few zlotys for a cup to fill with the allegedly healthy waters. Unlike at some spas the water tasted drinkable.

At my hotel, a renovated historic building fronted by grand columns, I enjoyed fish (dorada or sea bream), chips and salad for dinner at a price less than I expected for such a posh hotel. Outside a singer had trouble reaching the high notes.

Srebrna Góra to Glinno: Day 159

Another day walking over wooded mountains. 

Troubled by blisters on both my heals, which give a burning feeling whenever I set off before the pain fades, I tried this morning covering them with plasters. While not effective at stopping them hurting at least they are protected from my smelly socks.

My accommodation last night was on the mountainside a little below Fort Srebna Góra.  This morning I took my breakfast at a seat overlooking the view down to the plains of Silesia to the north. It was easy to see why the Fortress above me was located here, it commanded large swathes of land, or it did before trees were allowed to grow. They could now obscure the sight of any approaching enemy.

I began my day returning to the Fort. Then, for the next kilometre or so my route took me around the earthworks and walls of this exceptionally large structure. I walked along an embankment that ran outside a ditch, beyond which the high, rough stone walls of the Fort rose. Trees, growing all around me, hid the true scale of the construction. 

Continuing on more normal forest tracks I noticed vans with empty trailers heading downhill. These appeared to be used to bring mountain bike riders and their bikes up the hill so that they could ride down. Seemed very lazy to me.

Many kilometres of woodland followed, a lot of it beech trees, some very tall. Frequently I could hear the buzz of chainsaws and I passed a number of forest workers. For safety, when a lorry loading logs was taking up all the track and more, I made a wide detour stumbling among the undergrowth.

As the afternoon waned I had my sternest test. A long climb up to the top of Wielka Sowa (1015 metres). My reward was a stall where I bought an Americano coffee and a piece of cake. Large numbers of people and children were about. There was also a small chapel, an aerial and an observation tower which I climbed. The view was extensive. Buildings clustered into towns and villages on the fields of the plain to the north. Mountains upon mountains of tree covered mountains stretched in other directions, all highlighted by the sun, now low in the sky. My photos did not capture its beauty. I watched the crowds leave as 5 pm approached and a lady climbed to the top in order to lock up. I was glad she did not lock me in.

I decided to wild camp tonight as I was not sure how far I would get. There were still people around at 6 pm as I was walking along looking for a place to camp. These included two cyclists and a couple picking fungi, both popular pursuits in the forest. Leaving the track in the last stand of conifers before the village of Glinno, I found a spot among the trees, only slightly sloping to pitch up and well hidden from anyone passing. 

Bardo to Srebrna Góra: Day 158

Highlights today were two 18th century forts.

A leisurely breakfast listening to the breathy vocals of the soothing background music. I was annoyed the repetitious musical phrases stuck in my head as I walked along. Again it up and down over wooded hills with a couple of excessively steep sections I struggled up, gaining purchase on tree roots and exposed stone.

Helping me were the blue waymarks and I again saw a person painting them on trees. Although I have the route on my GPS, the waymarks stop me having to look at it too much, wasting battery life, and helps at forks where, due to the small angle between alternate tracks it can be difficult to tell from the gps which is correct.

I stopped for a snack on benches by a granite plaque. The plaque commemorated the 100th anniversary of the Polish Hunting Association, reminding me of a novel I had recently read. Written by Polish writer Olga Tokarczuk it is set in this area, centering about a lady hostile to the local hunters with good reason. By coincidence I am staying tonight at Villa Hubertus. Saint Hubertus is patron saint of hunters, despite giving up hunting after his conversion.

There have not been a great number of flowers about on this trip, maybe it is too late in the year. In addition to yarrow there were harebells and toadflax today. Large, graceful grasses arched over the path, identified by Google as wood small-reed.

Part of my walk was on an abandoned railway with a lengthy cutting dug into solid rock. According to a collapsed sign, fragments of which could still be read, it was the Srebna Góra section of a cog railway known as the "Sowe", built between 1900 and 1902. The E3 turned off the line just before a bridge, maybe fortunately as the structure was crumbling.

My walk was not a long one today and before 2 pm I arrived at Fort Ostróg. Built in the 18th century on one side of a key pass through the mountains, with Fort Srebna Góra on the other, together they defended the boundary of the Prussian Empire. The displays at Fort Ostróg mainly related to the Second World War when the Nazis used the Fort as a prison for Polish Officers, Oflag VIIIB. At that time the area of Silesia (the region of Poland I am in) was part of Germany. 

After touring the Fort and its small museum of military artefacts, I walked down to the pass, stopping for a coffee and cheesecake until it was time to check in at my accommodation under Fort Srebna Góra. Proceeding to this Fort I was given an English language audio tour to listen to. It told me how the Prussian King Frederick II had the fortress built to defend against the Austrian Hapsburg Empire.