E3: Comments on the E3 in Romania

Romania has great potential for visitors who enjoy the outdoors, there are marked trails for walking, as well as opportunities for trail running, mountain biking, via ferrata, quad and scrambler bikes, and that is just in the summer! The area of western Romania which the E3 crosses is sparsely populated and largely consists of wooded mountains and hills with patches of grassland. In areas the bedrock is limestone which is why there are many caves on the route. Due to the tree covering, features such as limestone pavements are not developed but there are sinkholes, gorges and rivers which appear out of blue pools.

The villages the E3 passes through are of interest for their single storied, red roofed houses, joined one to another. Some were originally founded by Czech and Saxon settlers. Those houses which are well maintained or have been renovated are attractive with patterns cast into their rendering brought out by the paintwork, and in some cases decorated with coloured tiles. Large gates leading to a yard behind the house are embellished with intricate ironwork. Timișoara is not on the E3 but is a regional transport hub with an International Airport from where you can access the E3 by train, taxi and/or bus. The city is well worth spending a day visiting as is Oradea at the end of the E3 in Romania with its Art Noveau architecture. Before visiting Romania I had the impression that Cauceseau had demolished all the old buildings to make way for monstrous concrete blocks. In this I was wrong, in Timișoara and Oradea (and the villages I have walked through) the traditional buildings are still there, many having been repaired, restored and repainted in recent years bringing out their beauty. 

Practicalities

English is spoken in Romania, especially by the younger generation, but it is by no means universal, so Google Translate is a very useful tool for essential communications. Note that it does rain in Romania, you should be prepared and not allow it to dampen you mood too much. Focusing on walking  and specifically the E3 (the Via Transilvanica is a better known long distance trail in Romania), much of it is easy walking on roads, forest and farm tracks and paths. However there are also difficult, overgrown sections with fallen trees, brambles and paths which dissappear. Read the blog to see where they are. For this reason it is important to be flexible, both with timing (difficult "paths" take more time and energy) and a willingness to take alternative routes which should be preplanned before you begin. 

Navigation 

A GPS is essential. I used a Garnin with the track loaded from the Romanian section of the European Ramblers Association website, however the E3 also appears on various hiking Apps (Mapy.com, OutdoorActive, OsmAnd etc.). However if using an App on a smartphone, make sure your phone is waterproof and that you have downloaded the maps so an internet signal is not required. Remember that neither is the GPS location precise nor is the downloaded track absolutely accurate, the actual path maybe 10 metres or more from where the GPS indicates it is. Tracks also move as vehicles try and avoid deeply rutted sections, people avoid fallen trees etc.. Waymarks are not present throughout the E3, but where they do exist they are very helpful in keeping you on the right path. The relevant section of the ERA website tells you which waymarks you should be following. As the E3 joins together existing trails the type of waymark frequently changes from red stripes to blue crosses or some other combination of colour and shape.

Food and Water

Water is unavailable for long sections especially late in the year when springs and streams may be dry. Make sure you carry plenty. Small shops ("magazin mixt") can be found in many villages with a limited variety of goods and a bench and table outside with men drinking beer, however it is best to carry some food supplies as they may be closed. Larger towns have fast food outlets, cafés and restaurants. Pizza seems universal but for something more local try the papanași for dessert. 

Accommodation 

I used booking.com and Airbnb to find accommodation but coverage is not good. There are many places where you can stay that are not bookable online, most are shown on GoogleMaps. My only attempt to ring a place up was a failure due to my lack of Romanian. While you can just turn up on the doorstep, you are quite likely to find no-one there, just a telephone number stuck on the door. On the plus side, places are inexpensive compared with Western Europe, as are the food options. In general the places where I stayed were called a "Pensiunea" and provided a room with ensuite facilities. Some offered a large breakfast and maybe also diner. I wild camped for several nights, which is likely to be necessary due to the lack of lodging. No one protested at my doing so but I tried to hide from view. Note that it is not allowed in National Parks where basic camping areas with few facilities are provided.

Risks

Although bears and vipers have greater celebrity status, dogs and ticks are the main concern. Dogs will run at you barking, however none of them bit me (unlike the ticks) but I was worried on occasions. Rabies is still present in the country. Unlike dogs, I never felt threatened or at risk from people, however I am cautious about accepting invitations from strangers. It is worth reading other people's blogs of their experiences on the E3 through Romania such as this blogger or Christine Thurmer's blog.

General

The people I met were friendly or at least polite, we exchanged "Buna's" as we passed. Unfortunately further conversation was limited as I do not speak Romanian. Appart from the Vartop - Padiș area I met few other hikers. Was it because I was walking in the shoulder months, May and September? In July and August I suspect I would have found it too hot. I met no British people, perhaps as guidebooks and other media direct visitors towards Bucharest and the Transylvania of the dreaded Count Dracula.

The start of my blog in Romania is here.

The start of my walk on the E3 is here.

E3: Oradea to Nagykereki: Day 92

The arrival of October was marked by low temperatures and my entry into Hungary.

Leaving my hotel early I braced myself for the forecast temperature of 4 degrees C. People on their way to work were well wrapped up in padded coats. My breath misted as I breathed out. Flocks of pigeons wheeled overhead. For my breakfast I bought a plăcintă with a cheese and potato filling from an old lady sitting behind a window in a tiny kitchen. I ate it walking across a bridge into an area of apartment blocks. It was the morning rush hour, with more cars than the roads were designed to handle. Oradea has been building extra roads, too new to be on Google Maps, but not enough to prevent the traffic from moving about as fast as I was walking. Drivers are very polite, people just walk out onto zebra crossings, of which there are many, expecting cars to stop, and they do!

Leaving residential areas behind, I had a long walk beside a busy, dual carriageway with industrial units on each side. Thankfully there was a cycle path that took me all the way to the border and beyond. Romania and Hungary are both in the Schengen zone so they took no notice of me as I left Romania and just waved me through as I entered Hungary, lorries gained more attention. Once in Hungary I turned off onto the quieter roads of a village. Hungarian villages struck me as rather more tidy than those in Romania that I had walked through. There were no chickens wandering around, nor any loose dogs although plenty of canines enclosed in their yards announced my passing. At a shop, hidden behind barred windows I bought an energy drink and a snack, later I acquired a coffee.

Hungarian village of Ártánd.

I needed to join up with the Hungarian E3 at Nagykereki, and chose to reach this village by following a road across the wide fields of the Great Hungarian Plain, a quiet road with long straight sections. Most of the crops of maize and sunflowers had been harvested. Many fields had been ploughed. A couple of huge tractors passed me, four large wheels in a line at the rear, two at the front, so wide that they had to pull onto the verge to allow the passage of cars coming in the opposite direction on the two lane road. I kept well clear of the shiny, sharp plough blades behind them. The hills and mountains I had recently climbed were now faint blue blur, barely visible on the horizon. A cold wind blew intermittently over the plain. Trees were either grouped in plantations (which were of poplar trees), or scattered along the roadside or field boundaries. 

My selected route followed a long straight road, often tree lined.

Beside the road were large, ploughed, flat fields.

I was making good time on the flat tarmac although my left knee was complaining, and my right ankle was giving me pain. My objective for today's hike was Nagykereki, however there was nowhere to stay in the village and I did not wish to wild camp as I had a spot of bother when I last came this way. Consequently I planned to catch the train from Nagykereki to the city of Debrecen, where there was plenty of accommodation. As I entered the village a police car stopped and asked my nationality and what I was doing. I said I was intending to catch the train and they did not bother asking for my passport. Partly owing to the one hour time difference between Romania and Hungary I was able to catch an earlier train than I had anticipated. Or rather I caught a bus replacing the train for a few miles, and was then transferred to a real, if aged train. The train proceeded slowly, the carraige experienced a double bump every couple of seconds as it rumbled over the old track.

Debrecen has a beautiful town centre. I walked by where I enjoyed a gin & tonic at a pavement bar on a previous visit, although today it was too cold to sit out. This evening I finished the day with a typical Hungarian dish of catfish paprikash.

Rest day in Oradea: Day 91

My rest day was not as restful as I had planned with an excellent guided tour and various chores to complete.

Street Art.

For my "rest" day I went on a walking tour of Oradea, which included a visit to a Greek Catholic Church, an Orthodox Church and a Synagogue. The Greek Catholics are a strange mix, the pope is the head of their Church but they follow Orthodox (or rather Byzantine) religious practices. I later visited the Roman Catholic Cathedral as well. During the 40 years of communism only the Romanian Orthodox denomination was allowed. Despite this the other churches reappeared after the fall of Cauceseau. The Jewish population was massively reduced by the Holocaust in the Second World War, and their numbers are now small although they were once an important part of the city's population. The town has a large Hungarian population and was until 1918 part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. The Hungarian name was Nagyvarad, which appears on manhole covers with the German name as well.

View looking up at ceiling of Synagogue 

Much of the city's centre was built at the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th, in a number of different architectural styles; Secession, Art Nouveau,  Eclectic, Neo-classical and Baroque. I particularly admired the Art Nouveau with its curves, colour and use of flower and other motifs from nature. So it was great to visit the Darvas-La Roche House with Alex my guide. Built in the Art Nouveau-Secession style and restored to its original glory the house included beautiful stained glass and furniture related to the period. It was also an opportunity to have a coffee, a shot of pălincă and taste placinta, a Romanian fried flatbread filled with various things. The samples offered by my guide were filled with cabbage, cheese and potatoes.

Stained glass screen in Darvas-La Roche House

After my tour I had to buy supplies for the next few days of walking, charge all my electrical items, wash clothes and other chores. In the evening I visited a "ruined" bar pointed out by guide. It had a huge and confusing selection of beers, I chose a very pleasant pilsner brewed in Oradea. I drank it in the courtyard which has a run down appearance with somewhat contrived tumbledown walls, trees and lightning that adds to the ambience. 

Oradea at night.

E3: Băile 1 Mai to Oradea: Day 90

A walk into Oradea, and the end of my walk on the E3 through Romania.

My host at the Pensuinea offered me a lift into Oradea and seemed perplexed that I was choosing to walk. In truth, the first part of the walk was not picturesque. Once I had left Băile 1 Mai, and negotiated pavements being dug up in the next suburb, it was a trudge beside a busy dual carriageway. Car repair shops, places selling agricultural stuff and the like dotted the road between rough grass. After crossing a large roundabout I was pleased my route took me into a quieter area of appartment blocks beside a tree lined road. The blocks were old but tidy. Then I crossed a neat park with a lily filled lake, weeping willows, benches and a maze. Here the dogs were on leads; small, cute and being taken for walks by their owners. It was a huge contrast to the loose hounds in rural Romania which terrorised passing hikers. I diverted into a shopping mall for a coffee. It could have been anywhere with international names like Zara, C&A and Starbucks. Then the E3 route took me on an intricate route to see some of the most interesting parts of Oradea. The fortress, although built on older foundations, seemed to be mainly 17th century. In the middle of the defensive bastions, there was a cathedral, which did not look to be of the Orthodox religion. 

These pictures were opposite the urinals at the shopping mall, not sure what they meant!

Fortress in Oradea.

I walked down a number of pedestrianised streets with pavement cafés, mostly unoccupied, the cold and the lateness of the season probably not encouraging lunchtime diners. Around me electric scooters wizzed. The architecture of the buildings looked interesting and I am hoping to learn more tomorrow, from the guided tour I have booked for my rest day.

Hungarian Art Nouveau in Oradea.

E3: Vârciorog to Băile 1 Mai: Day 89

A day continuing westward through farmland, trees and scattered settlements.

Morning sky.

As I had another long day planned I rose at 6 am and made use of the coffee machine in the kitchen area of the group of cabins while the sky's grey clouds gradually lightened. The first section was over fields making frequent right angles turns before entering woodland, a pattern repeated throughout the day. In the wooded areas I saw one deer and many red and black firebugs on the track, elsewhere I saw a black squirrel and two woodpeckers. Early in the morning there were many birds around twittering, crows cawing and what might have been a couple of Eurasian Hobbies in the sky. Unlike on previous days I saw four horse drawn carts, three loaded with wood and the fourth containing a family. They were the same type of narrow carts that I first observed in Bulgaria. I wondered if they were using horses rather than a tractor or other vehicle as they were poor or because they liked horses, or maybe it was easier to access the trees to be cut with a narrow horse drawn cart. They do not appear to be felling whole areas of woodland, just selected trees, maybe for firewood. Although there were two villages on my route neither had a shop or bar that I could see. A significant part of the route was on roads, the rest on good tracks which my knee appreciated and there were not too many steep hills to climb up and down. From early on today I could see a distant urban area, Oradea I thought, or maybe satellite areas. As I grew closer the plain beside and below me became wider and more urban.

Looking down on the plain.

Băile 1 Mai was a contrast to other places I have visited in Romania in that I entered an area of tidy parkland with elegantly designed lampstands over tarmaced paths. Tired and hungry I stopped at a Mini-market and bought a baguette with chorizo and mozzarella which I ate on a park bench.

The old casino, a historic building in the town of Băile 1 Mai 

Băile 1 Mai and the adjacent suburb of Băile Felix are "Spa" resorts associated with thermal springs. Spa treatments are advertised and there are aquaparks with water slides for children. There are many hotels and pensiuneas. At my pensuinea the owner praised Britain's King Charles for his support for Romania, where the King has a house. We agreed King Charles appreciated more traditional things. He also told me we were now out of season, July and August were his busy months. He would have closed on 15 September but he forgot to cancel the place on booking.com. 

Băile 1 Mai at night, very much a tourist town (in season).

E3: Vadu Crișului to Vârciorog: Day 88

A long day heading west into an area less visited by tourists.

From Vadu Crișului the E3 turns west, heading for the city of Oradea. The area seems to have fewer tourist attractions and facilities, there are for example no waymarked trails. As I left Vadu Crișului I noticed a well dressed couple, the man in a suit, heading for church. At another church, whose bell was clanging, a women crossed herself as she walked up the path to its entrance. Of the few other people about however, most seemed to be doing other things this Sunday. Leaving town and heading into the countryside, I found many cars parked beside the road, their owners picking mushrooms, occasionally shouting to each other from the depths of the woods. Later there were also one or two picnics underway.

In the morning the E3 climbed over a hill, through trees and over grassland. There were many tracks and I frequently picked the wrong one although it was easy to find a way back to the correct route. However, most of the day was on roads, mainly tarmac but some gravel. While the roads did pass through woodland there was more farmland than on recent days. The lines of the old strips of land, each strip once belonging to a different household, could still be seen. Sometimes they were planted with maize, but mostly the strips had been combined and used as pasture for cattle and sheep, more suitable for the hilly conditions than arable crops. There were a few scattered settlements that I walked through, the barking dogs telling me I was not welcome. Some of the houses were of an unusual design in that they had turrets at one or more corners. The squat, square turrets had pointed, red tiled roofs. I wondered whether they were just whimsical additions or if they had some purpose. I also liked the houses painted in blues and greens.

One of the turreted houses.

For a long way the road I was on ran along the base of a valley, which avoided climbing up and down hills. This and the firm surface of the tarmac or gravel pleased my left knee, which had been suffering from uneven, rocky paths in recent days. For the more important roads there were markers every 100 metres beside the road and milestones every kilometre. Counting these down was a means of measuring my progress.

A road walking day.

Tonight I am staying in a cabin among a group of other cabins although I am the only resident. The owner messaged to ask when I would arrive. Seeing a sign stating it was three kilometres to Vârciorog I said 4 pm. What I neglected to consider was that the cabin complex was two kilometres to the south of the village. In consequence, although I walked as fast as I was able, it was nearer 4:30 when I arrived. It is a pleasant spot, from the kitchen area I can see the fields on the hillside to my left, and a wooded hill in front of me. In the distance there is a flock of sheep. I have seen two other flocks today, each with a shepherd to guide them. With the evening cooling down, a shower did not seem attractive and by 9 pm I was tucked up in my bed.

E3: Șuncuiuș to Vadu Crișului: Day 87

A short distance to walk today leaving me time to join a tour of the Vadu Crișului cave.

Rosehips and daisies.

After a leisurely breakfast I returned to the centre of Șuncuiuș then followed the E3 which led me to the south west. My destination tonight was north west, but rather than take a direct route along the river valley the E3 gave me a tour of nearby mountains. After passing the many, low houses that stretched along the road out of town, the walk into the hills was pleasant enough in the cooler, overcast weather I was now experiencing. I wandered through beech woods and over grassland, rosehips adding colour to the trackside. Blackberries were not having a good season, going from an unripe red to a shrivelled, dessicated black with no ripe, plump fruit in between. Multiple tracks meant I sometimes accidentally deviated off the route but soon found my way back onto it. The excitement came with the rapid descent into and along the gorge of the River Crișul Repede. At first the path took a measured approach, zig-zagging across the slope rather than heading straight down at a ridiculously steep gradient. Near the bottom, the path became steeper and more slippery. Then it turned back on itself to follow the river for a kilometre or so. Due to assorted rocks, damp and smoothed by passing feet; a cliff one side and a drop into the river on the other; rock outcrops; slippery, slopping paths, and fallen trees this part of the trail was particularly slow. I could see repeated skid marks where a person before me had slipped, a warning to myself, but also reassuring that other people had walked this way recently. From the river I could hear shouting and laughter from youngsters in inflatable canoes.

Gorge of the Crișul Repede

It was a relief to arrive at a bridge, beyond which a good path led to the Vadu Crișului Cave. This show cave had tours and since I had time today I planned to go on one. A crowd had gathered, so I assumed a tour was likely soon, however a lad who spoke English said they did not know when. Taking a seat I waited a while until eventually a lady appeared and told everyone it was 20 Lei for a ticket and a tour would depart in five minutes (I had to ask her to translate this for me). After handing over my 20 Lei, and another wait, we departed on the tour. This involved the lady talking at great length at different parts of the cave. As it was in Romanian all I picked out were words like stalagmites, that were the same in English. Nevertheless the stalagmites and stalactites were easy to spot. Between stops there were steep steps to climb up and down and some low sections of roof which my rucksack brushed against, although other members of the tour seemed to be struggling more than I. Two bats were spotted hanging upside down from the walls, and there were apparently more in parts of the cave not accessible to visitors. Not the best cave I have visited, there were no large caverns, and a limited number of stalagmites and stalagtites, however, being in an area of many caves it was not a place to miss.

After my tour of the cave, I continued on the path along the gorge. In places it was cut into the side of the cliff and chains were provided to hold onto. These were not necessary today as the stone floor of the path was dry, but would be reassuring if wet. In this section of  my walk there were notices giving advice such as to clean up litter. One panel showed all the things a backpacker like myself should have such as a tent and water bottle. It included a map and compass but not a GPS which is what I use for navigation. 

Path cut into the cliff with a chain to hold on to.

Tonight I am in a more expensive hotel. I was welcomed with palinka (a clear plum brandy) and a pastry with apple in by the genial host. For dinner I had "mici", which means "small" but is actually like a sausage.

E3: Sohodol to Șuncuiuș: Day 86

Tree covered hills, valleys and grassland again.

A simple fence made of branches, wooded hills and a steep sided valley, typical of the area.

I walked down to the village of Sohodol, my boots gaining galoshes of sticky mud from the track. There was a shop in the village with a notice on the door which stated it would open at 8 am. Being a few minutes early I sat down to wait. A man came up trying to tell me something, maybe that the shop was not going to open.

The shop that did not open.

8 am came and went with no sign of activity so I climbed over the hill to the next village of Lazuri. There I noticed a building with a bench outside and a few men drinking coffee. There was no sign but thinking it might be a shop I peeped inside. I was rewarded with a coffee and a bar of chocolate which I enjoyed sitting on a bench. The coffee was of the expresso type and was served from a large thermos flask into small paper cups. Unusually the other men were quiet. As I walked through the houses loose horses were grazing on patches of grass around the village. A cow climbed down the bank of a brook that ran between parallel roads to drink. Hens pranced around on the verges. Climbing into the surrounding countryside I found signs referring to various outdoor activities. On trees there were small notices indicating routes for trail running, graded by colour, and others for cyclists. A larger sign described a "via ferrata" route, later I would pass the base of one. There were also caves, this being limestone country, and hiking routes waymarked with circles, stripes and triangles of different colours. Despite all these opportunities I was the only one today I saw enjoying my leisure time in the countryside. Maybe as I was later in the summer season.

I had a long day planned today to reach the accommodation I had booked in Șuncuiuș. On forest tracks I crossed many hills covered in beech and hornbeam, hills rather than the high mountains of earlier days, but there was still plenty of climbing up and down over the landscape. There were also areas of grass and bracken, the leaves of the latter beginning to yellow. Many trees were beginning to show a little colour with the approach of autumn. Tall summer flowers were now damp, black stems sticking up above the grass. At the end of a length of road, on a plain of grass, after a few obvious sinkholes, I found a shop at the edge of Damis where I bought a Coke and a croissant preserved in a plastic bag for lunch. A lady was cleaning boletus mushrooms outside while a man tried hard to engage me in conversation. He was unsuccessful as no matter how many times he repeated the Romanian words I still did not understand. I could have used Google Translate but I still had many miles to walk. The last part of my hike was along the base of a narrow wooded valley. This took me by one of the many caves in the area, Pestera Moanei. I climbed up to see the entrance and took a few steps inside. A sign suggested that bats lived there so I took care not to disturb them.

Cave entrance

After many crossings of the stream at the valley base using stepping stones I reached its end where a bridge crossed a milky green river. The bridge was supported by two thick metal cables below which the walkway was hung. It swayed precariously and the metal grating that I walked upon had been repaired many times, however the inch thick cables were stout enough. After a short walk on a gravel road down the wide gorge my route took me back across the river on a similar bridge. By this time I was close to Șuncuiuș and thought little more effort would be required. I was wrong. The route now led me up a steep, slippery slope out of the gorge between slabs of rock that formed the cliffs each side of this narrow valley. There was then a gentle slope down into town. However my efforts were not over. Booking.com showed my "Pensuinea" as being in the centre of town, in reality it was 30 minutes walk away not far from where I had recently crossed the river on a a wobbly bridge! On walking there I noticed a scallop shell symbol indicating I was touching on part of the "Way of Saint James" or the Camino de Santiago, I would be rejoining this route in France for the last part of my walk on the E3.

Wobbly bridge over river.

E3: Stâna de Vale to Sohodol: Day 85

A ridge path blocked by trees and brambles made for slow progress this morning, there was easier walking this afternoon.

View from the ridge.

By accident, not understanding what was being said to me in Romanian, I bought a punnet of raspberries in the restaurant last night, so I ate them for breakfast before a climb out of town on a tarmac road. A few kilometres up the road I turned off onto the E3 on a trail that rose through areas of trees and grass. I had concerns about this route as initially I was told by the SKV that it could be blocked, later they said it should be OK. At first it was on a reassuringly good forest track, unfortunately the E3 left this easy vehicle route, turning off onto a thin and patchy path. I was relying on the blue triangle waymarks to keep me on the right route, fortunately they were frequent....most of the time. The route became increasingly difficult as it followed the top of a forested ridge. Fallen trees blocked the path, and when one tree fell, it seemed to bring several others with it making large detours or a lot of climbing over logs necessary. Light then reached the forest floor causing brambles and saplings to burst into life hiding any path and often blocking progress. In addition the ridge became narrow with steep sides. Outcrops of rock had to be negotiated. Pushing through the undergrowth, climbing over rotting tree trunks and up and down steep slopes to find a way through was really sapping my energy. Matters were made worse by incessant, if light, rain. My waterproofs were making me hot, tears of sweat were falling down my cheeks and my glasses kept steaming up obscuring evidence of a possible path, should it exist. I was about to give up and turn back but I reasoned that there was a track down to a road somewhere ahead of me, which was nearer than the distance I would have to retrace my steps for over numerous areas of fallen trees. Consequently I continued on, and when I reached a joining track, matters greatly improved. 

Fallen trees and steep slopes each side of the ridge.

From then on the walking was easy, if muddy in places, on forest tracks which seemed to be kept open by ancient tractors and trailers cutting and collecting wood, one of which I passed. In future I would recommend anyone walking the E3 to follow the road north from Stâna de Vale, then turn west, uphill on the track marked by blue circles, this joins the E3 marked by blue triangles heading for Meziad.

Today there were many fire salamanders on the track, black lizards with yellow spots. I suppose they liked the rain.

Fire Slamander.

Meziad consisted of two parallel roads with a waterway between, lined with the single storey, red roofed houses characteristic of these villages. Tractors and other farm implements were left beside the concrete banks of the waterway. People were about along the length of this strung out village, ladies in head scarfs, men in working clothes, we exchanged nods or "buna's" as I passed. I had recorded in my notes that a shop might exist at the main junction with a road heading north. Under the concrete of an unfinished building, a convenience store did indeed hide. I was soon enjoying a Coke and a snack on a rough bench in the shelter of a concrete alcove that housed the door to the shop. A man tried to engage me in conversation while I was eating my cheese filled pastry. The lack of a common language made this a fruitless exercise. He tried a bit of mime, pointing to the sky, and up the road, but I was more interested in my pastry, especially as I feared he was offering me a bed for the night, out of the rain, which I would have had to politely refuse. I wanted to make some extra distance so as to reach Suncuius tomorrow, and continued for an extra hour or so. First I followed a narrow valley with fields of maize, then the track climbed to higher land. Here I found a desirable spot to camp, beside a quiet side path among heathland, not far from the next village of Sohodol.

E3: Padiș to Stâna de Vale: Day 84

A shorter day over the mountains to the empty resort of Stâna de Vale.

The way ahead

I again climbed into the mountains among spruce trees and meadows. People were about picking mushrooms from among the trees, their empty cars left beside the track. In one area of slopping grazing there were many small huts, too many to be shepherd huts but nor did they look like they were used for holidays. Two shepherds were driving a flock of red sheep. The sheep and I walked together for a while and on looking closer the red colour appeared to be some kind of dust that had been applied. As I climbed higher on stoney tracks the views openned up to include the mountains I had crossed, Mount Bihor was visible, those I was about to struggle up and down, and to the west, the edge of the Great Plain was appearing. Signs were often written in both Romanian and Hungarian, an indication that my next country was near. I admired the sky; there were puffed up, almost solid cumulus clouds below high altitude, ethereal, smeared out clouds set in a blue surround. Sadly rain is forecast for tomorrow.

Cloudscape

After several summits, my route descended to a gravel road that I followed into Stâna de Vale. The road was unexpectedly busy, perhaps with people taking their mushrooms to be sold. Just before Stâna de Vale there was a waterfall, artificially constructed with boulders and cement over which water cascaded down via a series of pools. Steps climbed around it on both sides. A man there seemed to be trying to find out which football team I supported. The English Premier League is popular here, sadly for him I am not interested in football.

Stâna de Vale is a curious place. In theory it has many attractions but they are all closed, perhaps because it is an out of season ski resort. There is also a monastery, or at least a church. The Stations of the Cross, a shrine and nativity are the best kept parts of the town, decorated with fresh geraniums. I saw the lady responsible tending to the plants in the porch of the church. There is a big hotel, and my accommodation is in an annex. I was the only one eating in the large restaurant tonight. Although Stâna de Vale is run-down with at least one derelict building and unfinished roads, at least the dogs were indolent, not seeing me as someone worth barking at. The tinkling of bells, hung on the necks of cows grazing on the grass in front of the hotel, added a cheery note to a rather depressing scene.

E3: Vartop to Padiș: Day 83

Today I walked through an area popular with hikers and deviated to visit two caves at the bottom of huge sinkholes.

The day began by climbing a hill out of Vartop then descending the other side. Going up and down wooded hills was very much the pattern for today, except, as I had plenty of time, I decided to deviate off the E3 to investigate Peștera Cetățile Ponorului. These were caves at the bottom of huge depressions in the limestone landscape, in effect massive sinkholes. Reaching them involved an extremely steep descent down a gully over rocks and scree. In places there were chains to hang onto which I was glad of as the rocks were wet and worn by the passage of numerous feet. After manoeuvring under trees and over rocks I would check my GPS and satellite communicator had not fallen out of the pockets in my shoulder straps. The action reminded me of people making the sign of the cross. While it might have been appropriate to ask for God's help I instead focused on making sure each foothold, and where necessary, handhold was secure before proceeding to the next one. I was not alone there was a group ahead of me as we descended, they offered to let me pass but I was quite happy to be at the back watching how they progressed.

Bottom of first sinkhole, where I left the group I had followed down.

Finally reaching the bottom, cliffs rising up on almost all sides, we all stopped in front of a cave. I could hear water flowing deep inside the cave and there was a cold mist at its entrance. The floor of the cave dropped precipitously and I was not foolish enough to enter it, so after taking a requested photo of the group I had been following, I continued on my way alone. First there was a steep climb out of the massive hole in the ground, followed by another steep descent into the next sinkhole. Metal steps had been installed in places, although in each case the bottom step was a few feet above the ground below. I had to hang onto the last metal stanchion which supported the handrail and swing down via nearby rocks. A huge cave was at the bottom from which again I could hear the sound of flowing water. Then it was a long climb out again initially over boulders and then up a steep slope aided by cables and steps.

Large cave in second sinkhole.

After that adventure I made another diversion to Glavoi, which consisted of a few huts selling food, a couple of campervans, a Nomad's library in a clear plastic dome and a Mountain Rescue station with two of their red pickups parked outside. It was reassuring to know there was someone to rescue me if things went wrong. The Nomad's Library consisted of a few shelves of book which you could borrow. As I enjoyed a snack at one of the cafés I wondered who made use of the library. 

Today was unusual in the number of people out hiking. There were a few backpackers like myself, many others out for the day with small packs and cameras, and a couple on mountain bikes. Until now I only recall seeing two groups of people walking in the Romainian mountains for pleasure. It is an attractive area, part of the "Apuseni National Park", (the mountain range being called the Apuseni).

Grass meadow among the trees of the Apuseni Mountains.

From Glovoi I returned to the E3 where it crossed a green meadow, close cropped by cows. A small river ran across its base, one of its tributaries flowed out of a cave. A steep climb through trees was then necessary to reach Padiș. Pardiș was not as neat as Vartop. Tents were pitched by a stream, a man threw a ball for his dog by a campervan, there were rusty ramshackle sheds and buildings, some advertising sales of branza, the local soft white cheese. However my lodgings for the night are in a modern cabin by a restaurant where I have eaten dinner tonight. During my meal the large television screen was showing animations of the nursery rhymes that my Mother used to sing to me when I was a small child, which are evidently now supplied by YouTube. This was for the benefit of a Romanian family, or more particularly their two small children. As the rhymes were in English I wondered what impact this would have on the children, especially as the videos were trying to teach them their numbers among other things. 

Stream leaving a hole in the rocks.

E3: Vârful Cucurbâta Mare to Vartop: Day 82

After being disturbed early, I climbed up to the highest summit of this trip.

The outdoors would be lovely if it were not for the insects. A massed fly attack forced me into my tent as soon as it was pitched last night. They then accumulated between the inner and outer tent, buzzing above my head. When answering a call of nature in the dark before going to sleep, my head torch attracted a swarm of the little devils which battered against my face. They followed me back into the tent, where I had trouble persuading them to leave. Although I managed to kill a few, a annoying number remained in the inner tent until morning.

At around 5 am, I was woken up by the sound of a car stopping nearby, and its door openning and shutting. Hunters I thought. People have been accidentally killed having being mistaken for deer, so when I left my tent at around 7 am in the morning twilight, I left my head torch switched on, deer and wild boar not being noted for carrying torches. The 4 wheel drive responsible for the noise was only 10 metres from my tent, nobody was inside when I walked by at the start of today's hike. Shortly after there were another four vehicles, and later I passed more. My landlady tonight suggested they may actually have been collecting boletus mushrooms, which are difficult to cultivate artificially and fetch a good price, unlike wild cranberries which are also picked around here.

My first target was to climb the mountain of Cucurbâta Mare, also called Mount Bihor. Although the aerial on top looked close, I knew I had a 300 metre climb. From a distance it appeared there was a hut on the summit, but close up I could see it was a substantial three storey building. The steep and rock strewn path went straight up through the juniper bushes, following a line of concrete pylons. No wire ran through these poles, having been replaced by three thick, red electric cables that ran under the path, occasionally revealing themselves where rocks had slipped away. However, the pylons provided mini-milestones as I pushed myself up using my trekking poles to full effect, climbing from one pole to the next. I was glad I was in the shade of the mountain which prevented me sweating too much, although when the low sun's rays reached me around the mountainside, they blinded me, making the trail beneath my feet dissappear into invisible darkness. My tiring ascent was rewarded at the top by a panorama of wooded mountains in all directions except to the west where the land flattened out towards the Great Hungarian Plain. In the valleys I could see a scattering of houses and fields except where obscured by low cloud. The highest point was around the back of the building where there was a cross, a pillar and a sign giving the height as 1849 metres, one of the higher points on the E3.

Summit of Vârful Cucurbâta Mare.

View from the top.

On the other side of the mountain the trail descended swiftly, before climbing over a number of smaller, but still substantial summits as it progressed north. The final descent to the village of Vartop was especially steep and rough with loose stones. Vartop has a lot of construction work in progress, and a few attractive chalet style buildings. A ski resort, although with only a few lifts more suitable for beginners, it seems to have a lot of closed accommodation at this time of year. For dinner I had chicken with boletus mushrooms in a sour cream sauce, very nice. Then a glass of red wine watching the Romanian version of Masterchef.

E3: Bulzestii de Sus to Vârful Cucurbâta Mare: Day 81

A big climb followed by a ridge walk under blue skies.

After packing up, trying not to fall down the steep slope beside the tent, I walked along the road to the main part of Bulzestii de Sus. I  had noted a shop and tap in the village in my plans. Sadly the shop cum café was not open until 12:00 and the tap did not work. Heading uphill I filled up with water from a nearby stream, babbling down the hillside, adding a couple of water purification tablets. A Cabana is a kind of mountain accommodation and on my walk through Romania they usually seem to be closed. The one I passed on the way to the village this morning, although marked on the map, was definitely shut with no signs to advertise what it was. However near the beginning of my long ascent today, I passed another one which looked more welcoming. It had a signs with included the word "Punct Gastronomic" which I associated with food. So I went in and asked if I could have breakfast. The kind lady provided coffee, fried eggs, salami, tomatoes, cucumber, cheese, jam and bread. Most of it was grown or made by the owners (their previous pig was responsible for the salami). There were three kinds of jam, one made with a flower, another a plant and the third a berry, the lady and her husband did not know the English words for them but all three were delicious.

Suitably replete I had a 900 metre climb, first on tarmac roads, then on a variety of paths and tracks. Although somewhat overgrown in places with encroaching young trees or brambles, I managed to push through, sweating profusely. Near the top I encountered a "bendy bus" with its rear engine removed, incongrous in this mountain setting far from proper roads. It must have been difficult to get it up the rough tracks, and I wondered why they bothered.

Climbing into the mountains

Once on the ridge I joined a gravel track that continued for many miles following the high ground, sometimes in open grassland, other times under trees. A series of 4 wheel drives vehicles passed, some at least, out for a Sunday drive. A few pools of muddy water hindered me and several uphill sections over minor summits slowed me down. There were grand views of wooded mountain ranges in all directions, deeply incised by valleys, although to the west the hills were becoming lower.

View from the ridge of more mountains

I was glad I had loaded up with water this morning as climbing in the heat was thirsty work. There were no opportunities to gain extra water, although I crossed two damp areas that might have been streams in the spring. 

The track I was following, Vârful Cucurbâta Mare in the distance

At 5 pm, I decided to stop, seeing a desirable camping spot, almost flat, on the moss among conifer trees. A discarded can and bottle suggested I was not the first to admire this spot. Tomorrow there is a big mountain to climb before a night at a Pensuinea in Vartop. 

E3: Brad to Bulzestii de Sus: Day 80

A day in which I had to divert off the E3 due to difficult or non existent paths.

This morning I found a tiny tick on my left ear. I had been rubbing my ear not realising I had an insect attached to me rather than a mere bite. After peering in the bathroom mirror I eventually removed it with the smallest of the bright green "hooks" I have for the purpose. Now I keep wondering if I have any more ticks in places I cannot see. I cannot feel anything, but I am worrying about every itch and tiny black speck of dust I see!

This morning I walked out of Brad to rejoin the E3 on the road to Ribita. Soon I was at the village itself. Near the entrance was another monument to the 1784 rebels and their attacks on the Hungarian Nobles. I diverted to the church as it had been advertised as sight to see, however the door was locked and the outside was no more splendid than other Orthodox churches. There was one advantage to this diversion, it took me passed the local shop where I bought a Coke and chocolate.

On departing from Ribita I was leaving the wide valley in which Brad lay, and entering a smaller side valley. After the village of Uibaresti the valley narrowed and its tree covered slopes closed in. The tarmac road I had been following turned into a muddy track beside a stream. A little way along I encountered many parked cars, tents and people, some sunbathing, others wandering about. A sign directed people to the "Womb Dome", a makeshift building that was presumably a meeting place. By the dress some were wearing and the decorations of multi-coloured tassels I assumed it was a weekend "New Age" event. A lady said "Buon Giorno" to me and I replied in kind. A man looked at me as if I did not belong, which I felt was true so continued on my way.

The next section followed the stream up a narrow valley and I had noted that the route might be questionable. Finding no sign of a path on either side of the wide stream, I assumed I would have a few kilometres of walking through the water. It was too deep to keep my books on but I could have changed into my "hotel" shoes to keep my socks and boots dry. Nevertheless, I worried there would be slippery boulders to cross and fallen trees, I did not want to risk slipping and injuring myself. In my planning I had worked out two other routes, one to the east and one to the west. Of the path to the east I could see no sign, however, once under the trees at the side of the valley the track to the west was well defined. I climbed up this trail through the trees to a road which I then followed as it wound uphill, eventually levelling out and then loosing some of the height I had sweated up to gain. At a bend on the downward stretch I joined the E3 at a covered picnic table with benches. By taking the alternative route I had missed out a "natural bridge". As it was close to the point I had now reached I headed back down the E3 to see it. After a steep descent I admired the feature, where the stream had dissolved a hole in a wall of limestone. More of a tunnel than a bridge through this great slab of rock. Upstream of the tunnel, the water cascaded over boulders, splashing down in a series of small drops. Sadly, I then had a steep climb back up to the picnic table beside the road. A man and his dog were now sitting there, after a brief greeting he watched me put a plaster on a blister on my heel that was giving me trouble.

Natural Tunnel by Bulzestii de Sus

At the start of the village of Bulzestii de Sus the E3 took a path across a field then up a hill. After crossing the pathless field I reached a long line of brambles and other impenetrable vegetation at the spot where the path should be. There being no evidence of its existence I followed the road north. 

After progressing a few kilometres I was in a quandary. I did not want to leave the road and start on the next section of path, because once I started on it there were no sources of water known to me for the next two days of walking. So I have found a secluded, if sloping, spot in the words to pitch my tent, near the road but not visible from it. Tomorrow I will continue to where there should be a shop and water source, fill up, and so be ready for crossing the Apuseni range of high mountains.

Rest day in Brad: Day 79

A rest day in Brad visiting the Gold Museum and completing chores.

After breakfast and various chores I walked into town, whose centre was busy and sizeable. In places, above my head, a network of wires were strung across the road between telegraph poles. The apartment blocks had a well used air, with stacked balconies and air-conditioning units stuck on the side. Seeing a market, the stalls partly in the open and partly in a hall, I had a wander around. There were clothes and cheese but mainly it was fruit and vegetables for sale, glossy red peppers piled high, aubergines, tight balls of cabbage, cauliflower etc.. There were more people selling things than buyers at this time of day.

Stall at Brad market with a mound of red peppers.

Appartment blocks in the centre of Brad.

The Gold Museum consisted of lots of pieces of rock containing gold on one side of the Museum, and on the other side, samples of all kinds of minerals. Apart from a helpful board outside the entrance all the text was in Romanian. It included details of where the area's gold mines were located and the associated geology. Veins of gold were associated with volcanic activity in the area of the Apuseni Mountains, although they were no longer profitable to work. I recognised many of the mineral names although the spelling was different e.g. cuarț instead of quartz. In the square outside there were a few women in "gypsy" style dress, the gold thread adorning one of them seemed appropriate given the Museum nearby.

After the inevitable cake and coffee I did a bit of shoping for the next few days. On my way back I passed the railway station building, now far too grand for the rare train, no more than one a day. Today's graffiti covered train was standing near the station not looking like it was planning to move soon. Nearby a narrow gauge railway line was originally built to transport material from the mines. Although the mines have now closed pleasure trips on the line were scheduled on weekends in the summer.

Brad's grand railway station

The next place I can book accommodation is in Vartop. I struggled with whether I could make it two days but decided to allow three, as there may be a difficult section tomorrow, some high mountains and my left knee is still recovering from my recent hiking.

E3: Visca to Brad: Day 78

Highlights today were a memorial to Romanian revolutionaries and my arrival at Brad, where I am having a rest day tomorrow. 

Morning view of the mouantins I will be crossing.

My walk began along a ridge of mixed grassland and trees with views of the surrounding hills and valleys. There was a smattering of wooden huts, mostly in decay although one was equipped with a veranda and bench. I continued into woodland for a lengthy stretch on a forestry track. Where it had seen little recent use it was covered with hornbeam seeds, however, there were long sections of mud with the scars left by trees being dragged down the track. Deep pools of opaque brown water collected at low points, in which a few tiny frogs swam. The track frequently bifurcated as vehicles tried to avoid deeply rutted, ponded areas. At times it was difficult to know if a track was forking off to avoid the muddy main trail, and therefore suitable for me to follow, or heading off to a different destination. There were a few ups and downs but overall I was descending into another major valley. In front of me the lumpy looking mountains of the Apuseni Range spread across the horizon, mountains I will soon be crossing. As I left the trees, on a grassy track, tiny grasshoppers jumped out of my way.

Grasshopper.

I rejoined civilisation at the village of Tebea, where the dogs were noisy but lazy in the midday heat, not bothering to annoy me too much. The water in the wells here is quite shallow allowing the use of a bucket balanced by a counterweight on the other end of an arm to lift the water.

Village cross and well.

Where I joined the main road there was a church and café/bar where I bought a coffee. The church entrance and much else was drapped in the Romanian colours of blue, yellow and red. Curious I stepped into the surrounding graveyard where I found a lady selling tickets. Without asking my age she sold me one at "pensionari" rate (evidence I no longer look young)! She explained in French what there was too see, and I used Google Translate's clever camera feature to read the information boards. The gaps in my understanding I filled in later from Wikipedia. In summary there have been three Romanian uprisings. The first in 1784 when the peasants rebelled against the feudal system, wanting to abolish serfdom. Fighting took place on this area and one of the leaders, called "Horea", rallied the peasants at an oak tree that stood by the church. The tree is no more but the stump of the large tree was wrapped in concrete, and this concrete shell, suitably decorated, now remains  Although the rebellion was defeated, serfdom was subsequently abolished, only to return in another form in the 19th century. The second revolution was in 1848 when Hungary was seeking independence from the Austrian Hapsburg empire, in which they were unsuccessful. At the time, this part of what is now Romania was under Hungarian control, the Romanians were a lower peasant class and the aristocrats were Hungarian. Avram Iancu, who is buried in the churchyard, rallied the peasants to the Austrian cause while seeking additional rights for Romanians. The third rebellion was in 1907, and was another peasant revolt against the society's inequalities. It was suppressed with many casualties although was not represented at the church today. It took the communist takeover in 1948 to finally squash old inequalities. Inside the church the walls, ceilings and iconostasis were completely covered with scenes from the Bible, saints and holy figures, embellished with gold. Unlike many churches there were also the colours of the Romanian flag worked into the designs.

 Orthodox Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, also known as the "Church with the tricolor" embellished with the Romanian flag colours.

I continued on the E3 beside a rusty railway line, before turning off and walking towards Brad and my "Pensuinea" for the next two nights. Once checked in I walked into town to a patisserie where I had more success than my disappointing choice in Ilia, and enjoyed a "Baba" type cake with cream and a latte.

E3: Ilia to Visca: Day 77

Another day of wooded hills and grassland with a few villages. 

As I only planned to walk 20 kilometres today, I enjoyed a leisurely start, picking up a pastry from the "brutaria" (bakery) nearby, to go with a few other items for breakfast. It was a spiral of hard, flaky pastry with stuff inside that had little taste, mashed potato I wondered? I was disappointed as I had hoped it would contain cheese, like a Greek pastry that looks similar (but tastes better). I made a similarly unfortunate choice last night for my desert to follow a large slice of pizza. Of course my problem was that I could not read the labels, I just point randomly at stuff.

My walk began by leaving the suburbs of Ilia, by houses with roses planted outside, now passed their best. Then across the flat floodplain of the River Mures on a road over a railway line and motorway, by fields of grey maize and sunflowers awaiting harvesting, but looking rather damp after last night's rain. Bacea village stretched along the road I was following, strung out along a valley. The condition of the single storey, red roofed houses in these settlements varies. While some are distinctly ramshackle others are well maintained with baskets of red geraniums hanging from their verandas. However, there is a general air of untidyness in these villages. Maybe it is the chickens running around or the randomly parked cars. All the villages have a well, often protected by a roof and trellised sides, although they are little used now. They also have a church with a spire and an adjoining collection of gravestones. Leaving the housing behind the road turned to gravel and climbed up through trees; beech, oak and thorny acacia. There were flowers in small roadside meadows that I tried to identify. My App identified them as yellow helianthus, mullein, "butter and eggs" and white Soapwort. Two aged tractors passed me pulling narrow trailers filled with chopped wood. The trailers were similar to those I saw in Bulgaria, although there they would have been pulled by a horse.

Coaja was the second village of the day, a scattered group of houses. After Coaja the trail deteriorated. What was once a sunken track was now blocked by brambles, branches and the like, for most of its length. By following barely visible paths through the surrounding areas of long grass I was able to keep close to the correct route, crossing a ridge into the next valley, where there was another group of scattered houses. After admiring the peppers growing in the garden of one house I continued to battle my way through the next section of overgrown path. On the top of the next ridge it improved by some hayricks and a field of wild flowers, but the track that followed was a mess of cow prints, their hooves creating pockets filled with water on the muddy morass. I was pleased to leave whichever way the cattle were going, although I continued on a track that was overgrown where trees were absent, or periodically blocked by fallen trees when in woodland.

Traditional hayrick in a field of flowers.

Finally reaching a road I walked to the village of Visca, where I had the unexpected pleasure of seeing a shop, which was due to open in a few minutes time. Once the owner arrived I sat down to an ice cream and fizzy cherry drink. Visca stretched along the road for a considerable distance. I left it on a track climbing steeply up the side of the next ridge. As Visca was my planned destination I was looking for a place to camp. I selected a spot on a promontory of grass, that was almost flat. The red roofed houses of the village are below me, from where I can hear the sound of a chainsaw and the inevitable barking dogs as I type this on my phone.

One of the crosses that are scattered around the countryside.