The day began by climbing a hill out of Vartop then descending the other side. Going up and down wooded hills was very much the pattern for today, except, as I had plenty of time, I decided to deviate off the E3 to investigate Peștera Cetățile Ponorului. These were caves at the bottom of huge depressions in the limestone landscape, in effect massive sinkholes. Reaching them involved an extremely steep descent down a gully over rocks and scree. In places there were chains to hang onto which I was glad off as the rocks were wet and worn by the passage of numerous feet. After I manoeuvring under trees and over rocks I would check my GPS and satellite communicator had not fallen out of the pockets in my shoulder straps. The action reminded me of people making the sign of the cross. While it might have been appropriate to ask for God's help I instead focused on making sure each foothold, and where necessary, handhold was secure before proceeding to the next one. I was not alone there was a group ahead of me as we descended, they offered to let me pass but I was quite happy to be at the back watching how they progressed.
Finally reaching the bottom, cliffs rising up on almost all sides, we all stopped in front of a cave. I could hear water following deep in the cave and there was a cold mist at its entrance. The floor of the cave dropped down precipitously and I was not foolish enough to enter it, so after taking a photo of the group I had been following, I continued on my way alone. First there was a steep climb out of the massive hole in the ground, followed by another steep descent into the next sinkhole. Metal steps had been installed in places, although in each case the bottom step was a few feet above the ground below. I had to hang onto the last metal stanchion which supported the handrail and swing down via nearby rocks. A huge cave was at the bottom from which again I could hear the sound of flowing water. Then it was a long climb out again initially over boulders and then up a steep slope aided by cables and steps.
After that adventure I made another diversion to Glavoi, which consisted of a few huts selling food, a few campervans, a Nomad's library in a plastic dome and a Mountain Rescue station with two of their red pickups parked outside. It was reasuring to know there was someone to rescue me if things went wrong. The Nomad's Library consisted of a few shelves of book which you could borrow. As I enjoyed a snack at one of the cafés I wondered who made use of the library.
Today was unusual in the number of people out hiking. There were a few backpackers like myself, many out for the day with small packs and cameras, and a couple on mountain bikes. Until now I only recall seeing two groups of people walking in the mountains for pleasure. It is an attractive area and also the "Apuseni National Park", (the mountain range being called the Apuseni).
From Glovoi I returned to the E3 where it crossed a green meadow, close cropped by cows. A small river ran across its base, one of its tributaries flowed out of a cave. A steep climb through trees was then necessary to reach Padiș. Pardiș was not as neat as Vartop. Tents were pitched by a stream, a man threw a ball for his dog by a campervan, there were rusty ramshackle sheds and buildings, some selling branza, the local soft white cheese. However my lodgings for the night is in a modern cabin by a restaurant where I have eaten dinner tonight. During my meal the large television screen was showing animations of the nursery rhymes that my Mother used to sing to me when I was a small child, but are now supplied by YouTube. This was for the benefit of a Romanian family, or more particularly their two small children. As the rhymes were in English I wondered what impact this would have on the children, especially as the videos were trying to teach them their numbers among other things.
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