E3: Padiș to Stâna de Vale: Day 84

A shorter day over the mountains to the empty resort of Stâna de Vale.

I again climbed into the mountains among spruce trees and meadows. People were about picking mushrooms from among the trees, their empty cars left beside the track. In one area of slopping grazing there were many small huts, too many to be shepherd huts but nor did they look like they were used for holidays. Two shepherds were driving a flock of red sheep. The sheep and I walked together for a while and on looking closer the red colour appeared to be some kind of dust that had been applied.

As I climbed higher on stoney tracks the views openned up to include the mountains I had crossed, Mount Bihor was visible, those I was about to struggle up and down, and to the west the edge of the Great Plain openning up. Signs were now appearing in both Romanian and Hungarian, an indication that my next country was near. I admired the sky; there were puffed up, almost solid cumulus clouds below high altitude, ethereal, smeared out clouds set in a blue surround. Sadly rain is forecast for tomorrow.

After several summits, my route descended to a gravel road that I followed into Stâna de Vale. The road was unexpectedly busy, perhaps with people taking their mushrooms to be sold. Just before Stâna de Vale there was a waterfall, artificially constructed with boulders and cement over which water cascaded down via a series of pools. Steps climbed around it on both sides. A man there seemed to be trying to find out which football team I supported. The English Premier League is popular here, sadly for him I am not interested in football.

Stâna de Vale is a curious place. In theory it has many attractions but they are all closed, at least partly because it is an out of season ski resort. There is also a monastery, or at least a church. The Stations of the Cross, a shrine and nativity are the best kept parts of the town, decorated with fresh geraniums. I saw the lady responsible tending to the plants in the porch of the church. There is a big hotel, and my accommodation is in an annex. I was the only one eating in the restaurant tonight. Although Stâna de Vale is run down with at least one derelict building and unfinished roads, at least the dogs were indolent, not seeing me as someone worth barking at. The tinkling of bells hung on the necks of cows, grazing on the grass in front of the hotel, added a cheery note to a rather depressing scene.