After breakfast overlooking the Danube I packed up and started up the road towards the Djerdap Dam. Heavy rain and thunder was forecast for the afternoon so I decided to aim for a hotel just after the Djerdap Dam rather than wild camp in the Romanian hills as I had planned. Consequently it was a short walk, so with plenty of time I visited the Fetislam Fortress just north of Kaldovo. Built by the Ottoman Turks there were earth banks and stone walls enclosing a large area of grass, and an inner castle with the ruins of towers, in which a stage and seating had been installed for summer events. It had all been recently restored and had a visitor centre where I bought my ticket and viewed the displays, which included mannequins in the dress of older times. I find it strange that the Ottomans were not expelled from the fortress until as late as 1867.
I then took a detour off the main road as indicated on maps showing the E4. While this avoided a stretch of busy traffic and visited fields of wheat edged with wild flowers, it also went by two areas where rubbish was dumped in large quantities. Not so pretty. The next diversion through the village of Kladusnica was more pleasant, especially as there was a shop for a mid-morning Coke and Kitkat and views of the Danube. I also passed the Roman Diana Fortress, of which the brick walls remain. As it did not look too welcoming I carried on.
I planned to cross the Djerdap or Iron Gates Dam to get from Serbia to Romania, but there was a problem. At the Serbian side I was told I could not walk across the Dam. Not entirely unexpected as I had read of one blogger having a similar problem. There was little traffic crossing the border so when a Romanian minibus carrying workman arrived I flagged it down in front of the Serbian border booths. Although they had no English and I had no Romanian I managed to convey the impression I needed a lift. Initially the driver was reluctant, then a lady border guard told them they should take me, or at least that was the effect of the conversation. So I jumped in and soon crossed the Dam. The border guard on the Romanian side was more suspicious asking if I was sure I had nothing to declare, I said I was sure in a convincing tone and we were let through. The van dropped me off just outside the border post, they offered to take me further but there was no need. Noticing a sign saying Museum, or something similar, and being early for my check in at the hotel, I paid it a visit. There were a couple of tour groups of young people who I manoeuvred around to view the displays, some of which had English translations. They covered the history of the area with cabinets of broken pots and daggers. One area focused on the island of Ada Kaleh which was flooded as a result of the Dam being built. It was a Turkish enclave but despite being fortified by the Austrians, it remained the property of a Turkish sultan until 1923 when it became Romanian, before disappearing under the water. In addition to stuffed birds there was a model of the workings of the Dam. Built to provide hydroelectric power and finished in 1972 the shafts of the 12 turbines are vertical with the wide generator located above.
 |
| Djerdap or Iron Gates Dam |
Leaving the museum, passing the no photographs signs I started down the road to my hotel. I did not get far before I was accosted by a policeman standing by a cabin. Not sure what he was saying but I offered him my passport, showed him the ticket I had bought for the museum and waved in the direction of my hotel, saying "Hotel". It seemed to work, he said "ten kilometres" in English, and half a kilometre later I was in the reception of a rather empty hotel. The restaurant is closed but I have some supplies with me as otherwise it is a good half hours walk to anywhere to eat.
The rain and thunder has now started so I am glad I missed, and feel vindicated that I chose to stop at this hotel. Unfortunately it means a long day tomorrow.
No comments:
Post a Comment