Friday, October 4, 2024

E3: Gyoztepe to Topochiysko: Day 3

A day with two lowlights, diarrhoea and nothing at Kozichino and a highlight, an unexpected coffee.

Morning view.

Diarrhoea forced me out of my tent several times overnight. Not a pleasant experience when you are camping in the middle of the woods on a moonless night. Not wishing it to continue, and worried about loosing fluids with an uncertain supply of water, I took a couple of Imodium tablets.

My camping spot was not as isolated as I thought. Two forestry lorries went down the nearby track after 7 am, and as I emerged onto the rutted track around 8 am, I met a man on a horse and cart with six dogs. Having no common language the conversation did not last long. He had hay in his cart so I assume he was off to feed his cows.

My walk to Kozichino left the woods behind and crossed rough grassland. Google promised a restaurant and shop in the village but the shop was closed, and had been for a while. Although I passed the restaurant before the opening time posted on Google, I rather doubted it would open today. Firstly, there was no sign to indicate it was a restaurant, secondly, there was a "death" notice on the closed gates. Fortunately in the centre of the village there was a tap where I could fill up with water beside a war memorial and some kind of (closed) civic building. This was fortunate as I had no water left. The houses of the village were spread out, many in a state of partial collapse, all a bit depressing. A few chickens wandered around. The "windmill" mentioned in my guidebook, was closed. However, the view from the hill after the town was very good. As I drank my water and enjoyed a bit of breakfast from my supplies I looked down to the coast. Through the grey haze I could see tower blocks beside the Black Sea, Sunny Beach I assumed. 

After Kozichino I spent the day walking among trees, over grassland and sometimes by large areas of ploughed earth. Although I was walking on a rutted earth track a number of cars passed me, carefully manoeuvring around the water in the deeper ruts. Some stopped and tried to say something to me. Not sure what. I also encountered a couple standing by the track with boxes of large mushrooms (or some fungus) that they had collected. There were sections of tarmac, one by fields of lavender, farmed in neat rows.

Lavender fields.

I investigated two "fountains" marked on my GPS, actually piped springs rather fountains. One was producing water, the other was dry. So a little consolation that I might find water later in my trip. While investigating one of these fountains I crossed the top of a village called Sini Rid. Next to a very closed shop I was delighted to find a shack selling coffee. I enjoyed my first coffee since yesterday morning sitting beside the trailer with a can of Fanta (to keep me hydrated), watching school kids buy soft drinks.

A working "fountain".

Having completed 30 kilometres I decided to camp in some woods a few kilometres short of Topochiysko. After three attempts, I found a patch of ground among the trees large enough to pitch my tent in.








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