E3: Leskova to Trastena hut: Day 23

Another day among woodland and crossing high grassland. 

Again packing up before dawn, as I walked along I was treated to a spectacular display of pinks and oranges as the sun rose. Grey mountain ranges, stacked one behind the other, became progressively fainter as they met the awakening sky.

Stacked mountain ranges in the morning light.

As I crossed a long section of grassland, marked by multiple ruts left by passing vehicles, I mused that people often ask me whether I listen to music as I walk along. The answer is no as it means I cannot hear things around me. The rustle of leaves beneath my feet, a distant vehicle, the clack of my trekking poles. I would have expected a "dawn chorus" of birds, but here they are largely silent. There are birds around, I have disturbed small flocks of small brown and cream birds that rise from the grass on my approach. Occasional crows "caw" as they glide above me. Today I saw two squealing birds performing an acrobatic display around each other. A herd of horses looked at me. Today the springs I visited were surrounded by a mess of mud made by their hooves.

Ruts in the grassland created by passing vehicles.

Horses on the skyline.

The season for red rosehips.

I reached Trastena hut to find it locked up. There was a phone number by the door but it just rang, then went to voicemail. After dropping a note to Lyuben explaining the problem, I sat and wrote up my blog and eventually two other people arrived with two children, also planning to stay at the hut. One of them got through on the phone and obtained the key and the friendly couple running the hut arrived an hour later having also been chased by Lyuben. I have just eaten my dinner beside a wood burning stove. The place is famous for its raspberry wine, as the hosts spoke no English I used Google Translate to ask for a glass. It was pleasant, although not exceptional. The family group staying here has grown with additional arrivals, however they are in a different dormitory so I am not sharing with anyone. The television was on, there is a general election in Bulgaria in three days time so there was a lot about that.

24.2 kilometres walked today, excluding a missed turn.