A kind of French Toast topped with a berry conserve and a piece of cheese was served for breakfast which I much appreciated. As it was not a long day today I took my time. It was a shame to leave such a nice place, although the Golden Retriever was a bit upset not to get any food off me, despite resting his head on my lap and looking at me mournfully. The white cat just sat next to me and gloated.
I was not the only person heading up the path today, four people on a day hike were going the same way with their small dog (some kind of cocker spaniel cross). Over the day I saw a few people on the trail, including a runner and a group of three backpacking like me. At first I followed tracks and paths through woodland and beech forest in autumn leaf - up, down and beside hills. Later in the day I entered the Central Balkan National Park and more open areas of grassland as I progressed to higher ground. From these heights I could see across Bulgaria. The tree covered valleys below me looked especially attractive, the trees now a golden or reddish colour with the progress of the season. In addition to the added interest of looking at blue, mountain ranges on the horizon, the views made me feel I was really high up. When you are among trees it is difficult to get a perspective of height and space, your vision is limited to leaves, lines of trunks and the rustling leaf litter your feet are disturbing as you walk.
On this higher, open ground a noticeboard said it was kept tree free by traditional grazing (that would explain the lack of conifer trees that you normally find before treeless high ground). In addition to rough grass there were large areas of spreading juniper. There were few flowers this late in the season, but among the few were blue campanulas, so characteristic of high altitudes.
I was "welcomed" by a barking dog at Mazalet hut. Although just after 11 am I thought I would try and get some soup for an early lunch, there would be no other opportunities. On wandering around the building I found a hatch where you could order food. After poking me head in and calling out hello for a while, a man appeared carrying a big saucepan. After the man mimicked the options (rubbing his belly to indicate pork belly soup), I chose lentil soup and a coffee. Soup was good although a gust of wind blew half of the coffee over my trousers. Annoying, fortunately my trousers are black so the stain should not show, not much chance of washing them for a while. I was soon joined by other customers enjoying the sunny weather, although quite cool in the wind.
A little after Mazalet hut the path rose up a ferociously steep slope, steps had been constructed in places to help and there were outcrops of rock to cross. A complete change to my trip so far. My efforts in struggling up the mountainside were rewarded by the ever larger field of view. In two places the "summer route" allowed me to bypass a peak, but in general it was pretty brutal. On one rocky summit there was a star shaped memorial to some passed away person, complete with his boots, a serviceable ice axe and can of beer.
With time everything comes to you if you keep plodding on, and I eventually crested the mountain. Beyond I could see my target for tomorrow, Botev Peak, an even higher mountain and the highest point on the Kom-Emine trail. Then all my effort in climbing the mountain seemed wasted as I descended into a valley down a steep path.
To reach my hut (Tyzha Hut) for the night it was then a gentle walk up a side valley fording a few streams, splashing through rather than trying to keep my boots dry. The final section was a steep path with helpful steps but two unhelpful dogs. These large animals barked at me all the way to the hut. Maybe they would not harm me but their aggressive barking was not nice. The hut keeper showed me to my dormitory. Again I am alone in the hut, October being late in the season. I was a bit confused as usually two sheets are provided, along with blankets for you to make up the bed, but here only one per bed was laid out. I might just sleep in my sleeping bag. Dinner at least was plentiful. I ordered both the soup and the salad, followed by three "burgers" (kofte) and three slices of bread. I think I am getting the idea of ordering! It was odd sitting in the "restaurant" area with just the hut keeper. This was the only really warm area of the hut as there was a large wood burning stove. Then a friend of his joined us, a nearby farmer maybe, the place is remote but I passed a flock of sheep on a nearby hillside. We all sat watching a silly game show on television, where the blue, yellow and green team competed in a sort of obstacle race on a beach.
21.4 kilometres walked today with just over 1000 metres of ascent.
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