A hill to Knjazevac: Day 38

A walk through woods in sunshine, a medieval church and difficulties with accommodation. 

A beautiful morning in the hills

Although I started early from my mountain top camping spot, the sun was already climbing up the sky. Walking across high ground, where trees and bushes were not so dense, I could enjoy the panorama of wooded hills and distant mountains. After scattered buildings with patches of pasture there was a long descent down a valley where green and brown, from the trees and track, dominated my vision.

This section ended in the village of Donja Kamenica, where my arrival on its outer edge was announced by furious barking. The canine cacophony continued as I walked down to the village centre, with one or two dogs following me, while three others rushed by in the opposite direction to address some pressing doggy matter. I stopped at the church. Unlike on my last visit the door was open so I escaped the dogs, and entered the cool of the ancient building. Dating from the 14th century the Church of the Holy Mother of God has wall paintings of a similar era, now dull with age. A small church in typical Byzantine style in the shape of cross with a dome at the centre. The twin towers by the entrance were more unusual for this type of building. Although Dinars had been put under the icons placed on a pedestral, a notice asked donations to be put in a box instead (which was where I added a few dinars). On leaving the church I admired the decorations on the small window set in the door. These included painted eggs, traditional at Easter in this part of the world.

Medieval church in Donja Kamenica

Inside of Holy Mother of God church showing ancient Fresco of the Last Supper

Decoration on the door of the church celebrating Easter

While I was in the church the dogs had wandered off. There were a few people around with whom I exchanged "Dober Dans", mostly older in age although there was one young family playing a ball game in the square. A man had recently hauled some felled trees into the village, pulling them along the ground behind an old tractor. I had followed the marks they left on the mud and stone track as I walked into the village. Cut logs were piled beside the road.

After topping up my water from a pipe below the war memorial I continued. Inevitably it began with a long climb up through trees. On the higher ground I found a number of small orchards in some stage of blossoming. Apples I assumed, they looked well tended, one man was busy pruning, another spraying.

Žline was a village with a few smartly painted houses among those suffering from age. After passing through there was a long road walk on the E4 before I turned off on a busy road to the town of Knjazevac. 

I had booked an inexpensive apartment in the centre and needed to communicate with its owner to gain access. Due to prohibitive costs and other limitations I could only exchange messages where there was WiFi. Consequently I settled in a café, ordered coffee and cake and sent a message to the owner on WhatsApp, which seemed his preferred medium. He replied telling me to message again at the address of his apartment. I explained I could not do this as I needed WiFi. He replied that was my problem! It seemed he could not give me a time to meet him at the apartment so in the end we agreed I would find another place to sleep. Although I am sure my lack of the local language and Internet access was frustrating, I have never encountered a less helpful owner when booking places. A local hotel, which did not take bookings online, had a room at a reasonable price and a lady who spoke English. I feel I am better off here where the staff are happy to welcome me.