I reluctantly left the "Base for Adventurers" after some jam filled pancakes and coffee from my hosts and Kefir that someone was trying to use up. The E4 does a circular tour of the countryside around Negotin before heading west. When I walked it before I did not think the circuit was justified by the scenery so decided on a more direct road route. This had the added advantage of passing the Bukovo Monastery a few miles out of town, on the steep slope just above where the flood plain of the Danube ends. A popular destination, the Orthodox monastery is of ancient foundation, maybe early 14th century, but the paintings in the church and on the iconostasis were more modern. They were not in the usual formal style of Orthodox churches, they had greater realism. On the ceiling, in addition to the usual images of saints and kings there were animals with wings such as a winged lion and bull.
I continued on the road. The E4 route from Waymarkedtrails.org deviated off to the north at one point and I walked up the track to investigate. However, the route turned into an overgrown track and the map indicated it would narrow to a trail with a river crossing. Today I did not feel like wasting time pushing through vegetation without any real reward so I returned to the road which I followed to the village of Jasenica. On the main road by the village there was a shop. As usual there were a few men sitting outside drinking bottles of the local beer. With their lined faces and grey or greying hair, sitting on the veranda on wooden benches, a scarred table between them, they looked like a painting by a modern version of Van Gogh. I joined them for a Coke and Twix.
After Jasenica I followed tracks in the direction of those on my GPS, but not quite on them. Maybe these tracks through woods, over grass and by fields change with time as a tractor driver decides to take another route. Then it was down the road to Šarkamen which has been resurfaced since I last walked it, when it was a pattern of pothole patches in varying shades of grey. Now it is smart tarmac, complete with white lines each side. The route from Waymarkedtrails.org again did an annoying diversion into the trees which I ignored.
Being hot I wanted to top up with water. After passing two older ladies in black, complete with headscarfs, sitting in shade in their gardens, I spotted an older, but more active man with a wheelbarrow. After the courtesy of a "Dober Dan", I questioned "Voda?", and waved my almost empty water bottle in the air. He led me to the side of his house where there was a tap. He ran it for a while until the water was cold then let me refill my water bottle.
As it turned out, his efforts were not essential, five kilometres later following a gravel road I was at the 4th century Roman ruins of Šarkamen. Under a shelter there was a tap, which I used for a further helping of water. There were also benches on which I enjoyed a late lunch. There were no people about and little information, a "Scan me" sign led to an inoperative website, however there were the remains of walls, towers, toilets (I thought as they were similar to ones I had seen at other Roman sites) and a mausoleum with a dome. Quite extensive but not well presented.
My next sight, another five kilometres up the road, was just off the E4 route. This was the Zamna Gorge. The route from the road was well signposted and maintained, but after an easy section through trees, the path rose and fell among rock outcrops before steeply dropping to the bottom of the gorge where I was faced with a river. A group of people were there. In answer to my query they told me the main sight was to the left, and to reach it without getting wet I had to walk on the boulders beside the cliff that made a precarious path beside the river. On arriving at a small beach, I could see that the river ran through a huge cave that it had created. Then I discovered the cave had openings both ends so was more correctly a natural tunnel. There was a gap in the roof and with time it looked like a natural arch would form. In investigating the tunnel I crossed the shallow river on stepping stones. I remember thinking I should have my trekking poles out for balance in case I slipped. Immediately after I slipped and soaked much of my trousers and tee shirt.
After viewing the main feature I followed signs in the other direction which were marked "information", crossing the river on stepping stones safely this time. There was no information, instead an empty wooden hut with a serving hatch arrangement and a large rubbish bin. It seemed unlikely that these had come down the narrow and rocky path that I had used. There was a wider track going up the side of the gorge in a northerly direction. To avoid retracting my steps I thought such a good path must lead to a road or track from which I could join the continuation of my E4 route. Following it would save a kilometre or so retracting my steps. Consequently I climbed the path, confirmed I could use it to regain my route and them decided it was time to find a spot to pitch my tent for the night. I am now pitched on an old track in the woods, slightly overgrown and evidently not used for a while. I hope it is not used tonight as I will be in the way.
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