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| A field of Dandelion clocks |
My route out of Sokobanja led to an overgrown track through low trees, where I had to push through thorny bushes. I slightly regretted not taking the route along roads I followed previously. However I withstood the challenge, finding my way and after a few kilometres the tracks became easier to walk along, running beside cultivated fields and grassland, moving in and out of trees. The pyramidal peak of Rtanj rose in front of me but first there was a ridge to cross climbing along barely visible paths.
Red and yellow waymarks indicating the E4 appeared a few kilometres out of Sokobanja giving me confidence I was picking the right tracks to follow. In a valley I passed a shepherd driving a dozen sheep across a meadow with his black dog. After crossing the ridge at a saddle the track led me down to a group of buildings. Music blared from a van but I could see no-one. A sign advertised a restaurant and camping but the surroundings made this seem improbable. A long, steep climb followed to the highest point of the range, a summit called Šiljak. My steps released an earthy, herby smell from the plants I crushed beneath me as I struggled up the mountain. On the lower slopes there were lilac bushes about to bloom. Higher up among the rocks, the bushes disappeared. There were plenty of flowers, some I recognised; cowslips and grape hyacinths, and many others I did not. Due to their variety and profusion it is a Special Nature Reserve. Some believe that, with its pyramidal shape, the mountain is a source of "special energy". After reaching the ridge a path led around outcrops before zigzagging up to the top at 1565 metres high, where there were the ruins of a chapel. In the middle of the stones there was an Orthodox style cross with bangles and other items at its base.
I reached the peak latter than expected so had to hurry down to the village of Rtanj, followed by a dog. Fortunately not a stray dog, it was obviously well cared for, its long fur was not matted. He left me at a cabin. Near the bottom a lad, who had walked down the mountain ahead of me, asked for some water, but like him I had run out, the tiring climbing in hot weather making me more thirsty than normal, and there were no springs in the dry limestone landscape today.
Rtanj village looked more prosperous than I remembered when I passed through last time. People were walking around, mowing lawns and selling herbs and honey at roadside stalls. At Pansion Radgost a lot of people were about. A party of neighbours and friends were getting together for a meal. The lady organising the group also organised me as the staff were busy in the kitchen or mowing the grass. Not only did I have chicken and mashed potatoes for dinner, but the group on the large table also gave me cold pork, and a portion of salad. Typical Serbian food I was told, Serbian hospitality for sure.
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