E3: Dargovský Priesmyk to Herl'any: Day 108

A tiring day up into the mountains and back down again, rewarded by a pleasant stay at Herl'any, although I missed the Geyser.

I was pleased this morning that my back did not make my walking excessively painful, and my left knee was also in abeyance. Fortunate as even without these maladies I struggled with the climb and then the descent today.

First, after a short walk I reached Dargovský Priesmyk, a pass crossed by a busy road. In December 1944 and January 1945 heavy fighting took place here between the advancing Soviet Red Army and German troops, with many casualties, especially on the Soviet side. A memorial to the fallen Soviet troops lies on one side of the road. I was impressed that wreaths, albeit of artificial flowers, had been left there. Evidence that the loss of life is still remembered. A Second World War tank and self propelled gun stood on one side of the road, next to where several lorries were parked. From the state of the kiosk and what may once have been a restaurant, they had closed some time ago.

A little after the pass, the trail began rising steeply. After climbing through the forest I reached an area where the trees had been clear felled. Densely spaced beech saplings had grown from the beech mast that had dropped on the ground from the long gone trees, creating a bright green, furry cloak across the valley. Curiously, the foresters had left the occasional tree uncut, some were dead but others were still bearing leaves. Standing alone, defiant, they looked vulnerable to being felled by high winds. Higher up I entered meadows with a few more flowers, as well as speedwells and dandelions there were (according to my App) green strawberry and yellow hawkweed (and later, under the trees, delicate white sand rockcress). The lack of trees meant I could see the surrounding area.

I reached a summit called "Lazy" which I thought ironic after the long climb. Attached to a fingerpost indicating directions and timings there was a metal box. Inside was a book and pen where people had recorded their visit. I added a note then looked for any others written in English. There was only one, entered on the 4th May which said "May the Fourth be with you".

Further on, back in the trees I reached a fingerpost which had the E3 continuing in two different directions. I was not aware there were options. The trails in Slovakia had been well marked with fingerposts referencing the E3 and the colour of the waymarks painted on trees and rocks along the trail that it followed. The waymarks were three horizontal stripes: white; a colour, then white again. I had been following those with a red stripe, but the sign indicated that to reach Herl'any, my next planned destination, I needed to switch to the blue stripes. Both red and blue waymarks were signed as the E3.

The blue route descended along a path which became indistinct. Beech saplings and fallen or felled trees obscured the path. Finding which way to go was a puzzle, pushing through the vegetation more difficult still. If it were not for the occasional blue waymarks I would have given up and found another route. After entering more mature forest, where the shade from the tall trees discouraged the growth of beech, or any other saplings, the route became easier to follow.

The next challenge was a steep downhill section, strewn with moss covered boulders. Fortunately the weather was sunny and the earth dry today. If the ground had been wet, negotiating the slope would have resulted in many slips and slides with painful consequences if I had hit a rock.

At the bottom the route crossed a track but the inward section was blocked by stacked tree trunks, recently cut. Rising a few metres the pile of wood extended laterally for 30 metres or more. Finding a way around took a few attempts pushing through nettles and branches over uneven ground. Eventually I reconnected with the blue waymarks. 

All the climbing up mountains and over rocks made me excessively tired although I had only walked 15 kilometres. The timings on the fingerposts to reach places seemed optimistic to me. I was very glad to reach my accommodation. It was the only place on booking.com in the area, a modern semi-detached house. 

After showering and completing my chores, I drapped my washing over the outside chairs and walked down to the Herl'any Geyser. Here water erupts on an irregular basis from a hole drilled in the 19th century. I waited a while before checking the village website, where I discovered that the next eruption was not expected until midday tomorrow. Still it was enjoyable sitting watching families enjoying the sunshine in the surrounding park, and observing visiting cyclists out for a Sunday ride.

I have been trying to convince myself that I can walk along the E3 to the town of Prešov in two days, in theory 24 kilometres each day, with a few mountains to conquer. However as I have not yet booked accommodation there, this implies a lack of confidence.