For some reason, despite having checked the route last night, I completely missed that the E3 climbs a mountain called Szafranówka. For some reason I thought it followed the river and would be an easy, flat walk. Instead it was a steep climb, up a yellow waymarked trail, crossing under a chairlift. Seeing people (and their mountain bikes) drift upwards above me without any effort, just made me bitter. At the top the activities available included a long, curly slide which you went down on a sort of trolley, like a summer luge run. At the bottom there was a "ski" tow to pull you back up.
My route took me to an even higher summit where on a narrow ridge I reached the Slovakian border which I briefly followed. There was an equally steep descent to the River Dunajec now on a blue waymarked trails, where I could briefly walk in a relaxed fashion along a paved path and cycle lane.
I crossed the river on a foot ferry. A man with an embroidered waistcoat, propelled the flat bottomed boat to the other side with a pole, as if it was a large punt. As the river was flowing at a good pace, the boatman had to first push the boat upstream with powerful strokes so as to end at the landing point on the other side. Being a sunny Saturday the ferry was full of day trippers.
The river lay in a gorge, and it was inevitable that there would be another steep climb on the other side. What I had not realised was how long the steep uphill section would be. The path was well constructed, zigzagging up the mountainside. Steps had been built and there was a metal handrail to assist the many people climbing up. The steel of the handrail had been polished to a shiny finish but the many tourists using it to pull themselves up. The E3 did not go quite to the top of the mountain, which was called Sokolica and nor did I. Not only did it mean an extra five minutes climbing (or so a sign claimed), there was also a charge to go up it.
On descending I missed a turn onto a green waymarked trail which caused me to re-evalute my day. I had planned to reach Sromowce Wyżne, but having started late (as I had breakfast at the hotel) and with the slow pace caused by the steep paths, it seemed unlikely that I would reach my intended destination at any reasonable time and my knee would certainly be complaining. So I booked a room near Krościenko for the night.
After a steep descent there was a short walk by the river to this town. Flat bottomed boats similar to the ferry I had travelled in, were being poled down the river. The riffles on the water, and the occasional standing wave suggested the water was shallow, explaining the use of the punt like boats. I idly wondered how they got the boats back up the river, where tourist rides were offered on them. It would take a lot of effort to pole them upstream. Then I saw on the opposite bank the boats being loaded onto lorries.
At Krościenko, I peered into a church, which despite its quite modern look on the outside, dated from the 14th century. Then, having plenty of time, I lunched on pierogies, a type of dumpling found across Eastern Europe. This was unfortunate as I discovered that the room I booked was above a restaurant that serves only pierogies, albeit with a varied fillings.
Deciding I needed something different I walked back into town. As cyclists and people on electric scooters sped up and down the pavement instead of the road, i kept well to the side. After passing a football match in progress I found a restaurant where I dined on trout. After I wandered back to the old church where a trumpet duo were playing a slow tune from the tower. Although not note perfect it made a sweet sound in the evening air.
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