I left my hotel early as I discovered there was a mountain hut on my route where I could have lunch if I arrived in time. First I followed the road into the next village Kanaš. Although only 7:30, men were out cutting the grass along the sides of the road. A stream of cars were coming towards me, off to work I assumed. Entering the side roads of Kanaš between the detached bungalows, the traffic died down. The rows a different coloured bins outside the houses looked very organised: blue for paper, yellow for plastic, etc.. Soon I was on a path through woodland, climbing steadily through the trees.
I was pleased to find a spring with running water coming from the little house constructed on top of it. There were even a few baskets in which someone who cared about the place, was trying grow flowers. After the spring it was downhill through an open field to the road into Terňa.
At Terňa I stopped at the Coop Supermarket for a few more supplies including a banana and kitkat for a late breakfast sitting on a wall by the church, watching the comings and goings. Then a little more road walking, uphill, by a large field of yellow rape to the next village of Hradisko.
After Hradisko there was more climbing, although not too steeply through the woods along a ridge. Intermittently there would be a cross or small shrine, a sign of the country's religiosity. Often there would be crude benches beside them making them suitable spots for a picnic. I also crossed the E8, a European Long Distance Path I have yet to walk.
Today the trees were more varied. In addition to the usual beech I crossed an area of hornbeam and there were lesser numbers of field maple, hazel, crab apple and other species. Higher up, above 900 metres there were also birch trees and conifers; spruce and larch. Some of the conifers were in stands, no doubt planted by foresters, others were mixed in with the deciduous trees. In places there were meadows at or beside the top of the ridge, above the trees lower down. This meant I could see the surrounding forested hillsides and maybe more distant fields and mountain ranges.
Rain was forecast around 11:00 and again late in the afternoon. This duly arrived causing me to stop and put on my waterproofs with the difficult decision of whether it was worth struggling into my waterproof trousers. Although the rain makes walking less pleasant I was glad it was falling as the farmers needed it and I hoped it would make the springs more reliable.
As planned I reached the mountain hut, Chata Čergov, in time for lunch. It was among a scattered collection of buildings which included a short ski lift. There was no obvious sign announcing the hut until you climbed the steps up to the door, where opening times were posted. As I was within these times I opened the door and boldly walked in. A man with a paint roller in hand seemed surprised to see a customer but after he had called another man and a woman, it was established that I would like something to eat. Chicken and chips were offered and accepted, I declined a vodka or rum, and we agreed on coffee and water. I ate my lunch, as the only customer, watching an ice hockey match on the large TV. The fast moving sport is immensely popular in Slovakia.
After just over 30 kilometres I decided to stop, not wanting to be too tired tomorrow. I am camped on an area of grass, probably the most comfortable spot of my trip so far, closed to a free flowing, piped spring where I can top up my water supply in the morning.
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