Liberec was the biggest town on this trip and an opportunity to both rest and learn a bit of history. For the latter reason I booked a guided tour. Like all of what is now the Czech Republic, Liberec was originally part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In this area most people spoke German. Its textile industry was responsible for the towns growth, it prospered in the 18th and 19th century when the old centre of the town was built. There was money to do it with style. The neo renaissance town hall dominates the main square with its towers, balconies and carved friezes.
There were a few setbacks such as plague and the Battle of Reichenberg between Prussia and Austria that took place here in 1757. Liberec was part of the German speaking Sudetenland that was ceded to Hitler at the Munich conference in 1938. My guide had a photo of Hitler on the town hall balcony after the Nazis occupied the area. Immediately following the Second World War the Germans were expelled at short notice, whether they had supported the Nazis or not, and the city resettled with Czech people. More recently Soviet and Warsaw Pact tanks entered the city to suppress the Prague Spring in 1968, watched by my guide, then a boy. People were shot, jeans with bullet holes were on display at the town's museum and there was a memorial beside the town hall. In the 20th century the textile industry was been replaced by factories making autoparts and similar.
I reached the city centre from my hotel on the outskirts by tram. Curiously each line had three rails. My guide told me that this was because historically there were trams with two different gauges (i.e. the distance between their wheels) running in the city. They have now standardised on a single gauge. Another Item I had commonly seen in towns and villages on my trip were columns, used for advertising.
I visited two of the museums. One of the engineers who studied in the city was Ferdinand Porsche, designer of the the Volkswagon Beetle and fast sports cars. This was highlighted by the Porsche Targa in the Technical Museum where it shared space with an Austin Seven, Ford Model T and other classics. I now find it strange that items like reel to reel tape recorders, that were familiar from my youth, are now museum pieces.
Also near the centre was a big, modern mall with international names such as Starbucks and Tescos. Such places are similar across the world.
I ate at a place doing grilled food tonight. To one side of the restaurant people were playing football in a netted area. On the big screen TV is an ice hockey match, a sport loved in this country. I decided on another beer.
No comments:
Post a Comment